Tagged ‘vinegar’

Why then the world’s mine oyster/Which I with sword will open.

June 14th, 2013 by KM Wall

 

2 oysters on the half shell - from the Cotuit Oyster Company website

2 oysters on the half shell – from the Cotuit Oyster Company website

The world may very well be Pistols oyster (in the Merry Wives of Windsor, Act 2, scene 2 written by a certain William Shakespeare), but he would have a rather difficult time of in some parts on New England. Although oysters are now farmed all along the coast, and have been for over 100 years, and have been happily gathered for even longer, oysters are not naturally in ALL parts of New England. One notable place without oysters – PLYMOUTH. Yes, there were oysters on Cape Cod (that’s where Cotuit is) and there were oysters in Massachusetts Bay (Boston is the modern landmark) but in all those miles in between….lobsters, clams and muscles were the shellfish of abundance in the seventeenth century. No oysters.

“The river [near Manomet] yieldeth, thus high, oysters, muscles, clams, and other shellfish;…”

- Good Newes, Applewood ed. p. 25.

Which brings us back to mussels.

“Muskels in bruet.

Take muskels, pick them, seeth them with the own broth, make a layer of crust and vinegar, do in onions minced & cast the muskels thereto.& seeth it, and do therto bread with a little salt & saffron the samewise make of oysters.”

-Maxime McKendry. 700 years of English Cooking. (Forme of Cury, 1378). 1983. p.32.

Take mussels, pick them, seethe them with their own broth, make a layer of crust (crust from bread) do in onions minced and cast mussels thereto and seethe it, and do there to [the] bread with some salt and saffron(you’re adding salt and saffron to the bread. Am I the only one thinking Mediterranean Cuisine here?) the sameways with oysters. (You can do the same thing with oysters instead of mussels)

Samewise is a great word we should still be using.

Variations of this particular recipe show in several manuscript versions.

This is an excerpt from Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7]
(England, 1390)
The original source can be found at MedievalCookery.com

.Cxx. Muskels in bruet. Tale muskels, pyke hem, seeth hem with the owne broth, make a lyour of crustes of brede & vyneger, do in oynouns y mynced & cast the muskels ther to & seeth hit & do ther to poudour with a littul salt & safroun, the same wyse make of oysters.

Similar, but not exactly the same. It’s interesting to me that when people copied recipes by hand, that there were all sorts of variations – spelling, punctuation, emphasis – in short, personality – that is utter lacking in the modern cut and paste and add a 1/2 cup of chopped parsley nonsense that tries passing  as recipe writing.  These medieval guys are trying to copy each other and they can’t help but make little changes. Like people who cook in real places for real people with actual preferences and dislike. Enough soapboax – more Muskels!

But if you don’t have mussels…poor thing…then same wyse make of oysters.

Henri Stresor - The Oyster Eater

Henri Stresor – The Oyster Eater – English mid 17th century

 

Muscules in Shelle

June 13th, 2013 by KM Wall

Mussels might be found on the tables of the very rich or the very poor, but not because they’re a great equalizer.
The poor can pick them up off the shore (I used to call it ‘pulling mussels’….now I hesitate – but the mussels grow in the seaweed on the pilings, for instance, or on the growth on rocky out croppings, so you don’t dig them or trap them so much as, well, pull them) and so they’re generally available.
The wealthy have them as a dainty and a novelty act – they’re more likely to turn up on the tables of those who live NOT so very near to shore, just because enough money can transport something perishable to just about anywhere in time for dinner.

Another food item that is both lowly and fashionable – humbles, or the inward bits.

Mussels and potato es - two humble food brought to heavenly perfection - but a little later then the 17th century

Mussels and potato es – two humble foods brought to rich and famous  perfection – thank you Brussels Mussels – but a little later then the 17th century

Muscules in Shelle

Take and pike faire musculis, And cast hem in a potte; and cast hem to, myced oynons, And a good quantite of peper and wyne, And a lite vynegre; And assone as thei bigynneth to gape, take hem from ye fire, and serue hit forthe with some broth in a dissh al hote.

John L. Anderson, ed. A Fifteenth Century Cookry Boke. 1962. p.27.

Take and pick fair mussels, cast them in a pot (have some boiling, salted water in the pot for best results, and before you go casting about, do the usual bearding, cleaning, stone and dead mollusk removing, and rinsing) and cast them to minced onions (this is going to be good…) and a good quantity of pepper and wine (this is going to be VERY good) and a light vinegar (this is not ‘lite’ vinegar, whatever THAT might be, although I’m fairly sure it is on the market. This would be a mild vinegar as opposed to something stronger. I would pick a wine vinegar that echos and enhances the wine. My wine is red or white, and so is my wine vinegar collection….)  and as soon as (say it out loud)   they beginneth to gape (that’s open) take them from the fire, and serve it forth with some broth in a dish hot. (I would add – bread to sop said broth up.)

Cornish Mussels

Cornish Mussels – in the shell and ready to cook

Puddinggrass

May 24th, 2013 by KM Wall
Hedeoma pulgiodes - false pudding grass

Hedeoma pulgiodes – false pudding grass

Mentha pulegium - Pudding Grass!

Mentha pulegium – Pudding Grass

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Parkinson Paradisus 477 Pennyroyall..vsed to be put into puddings,..and therefore in diuers places they know it by no other name then Pudding-grasse.

Now, dear Mr. Parkinson, how is that this herb that is named for it’s use  in puddings so seldom shows up in pudding recipes?

And frankly – GOOD THING:

Pregnant women and children under the age of 15 should not use this herb.  Do not use oil extract orally as it is highly toxic.  Do not exceed dosage amounts.

With any herb, there is the risk of an allergic reaction. Small children and pregnant women should use additional caution when considering the use of herbal remedies.

Which begs another question – how can the people of the past get away eating and otherwise ingesting things that we now know to be unsafe?

  1. Toxic load is different for different people in different times and in different place. Possibly there was a less toxic form of the herb available or perhaps we’re now exposed to things that make what was once inert, very dangerous OR
  2. When the leading cause of death is ‘suddenly’ appropriate cause and effect relationships aren’t always noted.

So this is a caveat – before we continue in the garden, before we try things merely because someone in the past wrote it down, before we try to be authentic in every detail in recreating old recipes, we must be safe.

Safety First.

Live to tell about it.

All the lovely herbals and books of medicine and even the cookbooks and commonplace books and receipt-books of the past are a great place to start BUT find a good modern herbal reference and use it often before ingesting anything.

There are websites (American Botanical Council or ABC) and books (John Lust The Herb Book is a personal quick and easy reference guide). Check them out before you eat! When in doubt, DON’T.

 

Skull and Crossbones - warning of  poison  AND sign of Cemetary entrance

Skull and Crossbones – warning of poison AND sign of Cemetery entrance

 

“256. A Pennyroyall Puding.

Take 6 Eggs beat them very well and halfe a pint of creame one Nutmeg grated a litle sugar and salt then take a good quantity of parsley penyroyall Marygold flowrs shred very small put them to the creame and Eggs with 4 spoonfulls of sack half a p[ound] of Corance and almost a p[ound] of Beefe suet shred a topeny loafe grated stir all well together then flowr the Bagge or pot tye it up close and it will be boyled in an hours time[.]

for the sauce take a litle rose water and sugar a litle vinegar and butter beat together poure it upon it then serve it in this is esteemed a good puding[.]”

-John Evelyn, Cook. C.Driver, ed. Prospect Books, 1997. p. 143.

For the Pudding, sans pennyroyal….

6 eggs, beaten

1 cup cream

nutmeg, sugar, salt

parsley and caledula flowers (not French marigolds, which taste as nasty as they smell – look them up…)

a little wine (a sack is not a bag, although sack in a bag pudding sounds like the punchline of a 17th century riddle)

suet and grated bread, I mean Bread Crumbs.

This is one pudding that can be boiled in a bag or a basin – basin being a category the I hadn’t noticed in Robert May. hmmmm.

The rosewater, beaten butter and vinegar sauce sounds very very very nice indeed. Not too much rosewater or it will taste like the soaps your Nana put out for company smells.

 

Gilding the Lily

May 9th, 2013 by KM Wall
Asparagus - formerly family Liliaceae; now Amaryllidaceae

Asparagus – formerly family Liliaceae; now Amaryllidaceae

The alternate title to this post: Drawing Lesson.

Lily

Lily

Lily, in this case, refers to the plant family that asparagus belongs. Or did belong. Before things were reclassified.  Asparagus, it seems isn’t really a lily.Anymore. Once, like onion and garlic, all part of one big Liliaceace, sperage/sparagus/sparrow-grass/asparagus  is over in the Asparagaceae train, and the onions and garlic are on the Amaryllidaceae bus.

 And what can make that spearage better? Butter!

 

1400 This is titled "Making Butter" but she's not. She's making medicine, or maybe pesto, but one does not make butter with a mortar and pestle

1499 This is titled “Making Butter” but she’s not. She’s making medicine, or maybe pesto, but one does not make butter with a mortar and pestle

Buttered Sparagus

Take two hundred of sparagus, scrape the roots clean and wash them, then take the heads of an hundred and lay them even, bind them hard up into a bundle, and so likewise of the other hundred; then take a large skillet of fair water, when it boils put them in, and boil them up quick with some salt; being boil’d drain them, and serve them with beaten butter and salt about the dish, or butter and vinegar.

1678, Robert May. The Accomplist Cook. (4th ed) Falconwood Press:1992. p. 255.

Asparagus with Hollandaise sauce - a butter based sauce...

Asparagus with Hollandaise sauce – a butter based sauce…

Here are several beaten butter/thick butter/drawn butter English sauces:

How to draw your butter thicke.

Put to every pound of butter, sixe spoonfulls of vinegar, a branch of Rosemary, a little whole mace, & a few cloves, put them into an earthen pipkin or a pewter dish, and set them vpon a few coales, and when the butter begins to melt, take a ladle and powre it vp a high till it be melted, and then it will bee as thicke as creame, and serve to butter any fresh fish.

-         Murrell, John. A Booke of Cookerie. London: 1621. Falconwood Press:1990. p. 32.

English butter

English butter

To draw Butter.

Take your butter and cut it into thin slices, put it in a dish, then put it upon the coals where it may melt leasurely, stir it often, and when it is melted put in two or three spoonfuls of water, or Vinegar, which you will, then stir and beat it untill it be thick.

-         1653. W.I. A True Gentlewomans Delight. Falconwood Press (1991) p. 54.

 

To draw butter of only use in sauces.

Take the butter and cut it into thin slices, put it into a dish, then put it upon the coals where it may melt leisurely, stir it often and when it is melted put in two or three spoonfuls of water or Vinegar, which you please, then stire it and beat it until it be thick. If the colour keep white it is good, but if it look yellow and curdly in boiling it is noght, and not fit to be used to this purpose.

- 1664. Mrs Cromwell’s Cookery Book. (1983) p. 77.

This all sounds an awful lot like Buerre blanc, this melted butter/vinegar/emulsified butter sauce. Buerre blanc also has shallots, and was in theory invented in France in the 20th century ……

And it’s Samuel Pepys who provides the sparrow-grass reference on April 20, 1667:

So home, and having brought home with me from Fenchurch Street a hundred of sparrowgrass,—[A form once so commonly used for asparagus that it has found its way into dictionaries.]—cost 18d. We had them and a little bit of salmon, which my wife had a mind to, cost 3s. So to supper, and my pain being somewhat better in my throat, we to bed.

 

Lily Tomlin.Birth name - Mary Jean . She didn't used to be a Lily, but is now.

Lily Tomlin.Birth name – Mary Jean . She didn’t used to be a Lily, but is now. Always golden.

 

“citius quam asparagi coquintur”

May 6th, 2013 by KM Wall

“quicker than you can cook asparagus”, as according to the Roman emperor Augustus.

Good advice for the asparagus,  no matter what the century – cook that sperage quickly. No mushiness allowed. Just the taste of green -  and a little butter, perhaps.

asparagus

About Asparagus.

Asparagus are just boiled, not too well done, and then eaten with Oil, Vinegar, and Pepper or otherwise with melted Butter and grated nutmegs.
- 1661. The Sensible Cook, Rose ed. p. 48.

And now in the original Dutch:

Van Aspergies.

Aspergies worden flechts ghekoockt/ niet al te murruw/en dan gegeten met Olie/ Azijn/ en Peper/ of anders met gesmolten Boter en geraspte Notemuskaten.
- (p. 63 . fasc page)

Ortus sanitatus. Moguntiae: J. Mayenbach, 1491. Leaf: 27 x 20 cm.; Illus.: 10.5 x 6.5 cm. Woodcut Wangensteen Historical Library of Medicine and Biology

Ortus sanitatus.
Moguntiae: J. Mayenbach, 1491.
Leaf: 27 x 20 cm.; Illus.: 10.5 x 6.5 cm.
Woodcut
Wangensteen Historical Library of Medicine and Biology

illustration from  University of Minnesota Libraries.

A Plaice, the yuce of Sorrel and more sops

April 30th, 2013 by KM Wall
Hippoglossoides platessoides   - American Plaice

Hippoglossoides platessoides – American Plaice

 A Plaice

Sole Meunière is a classic French treatment of flatfish with a lovely, lemony sauce, and worth noting if only for the Julia Child in Rouen moment (pause and praise Julia), and  Poisson à l’oseille  – Fish with Sorrel Sauce au francais – was my sorrel moment. A different flatfish, a different French city, a different decade, but in one mouthful I knew I’d been wasting sorrel and it was time to make up for lost time.  And this recipe calls for sorrel juice – that is, yuce. Don’t be afraid – the fish should be more poached then boiled, and if you can get a whole one, and not just a fillet….heaven on a plate.

20. To butter Plaice vpon Sorrell sops.

Boyle your Plaice in faire water and Salt, and a fewe sweete Hearbes and Vinegar, then take them vp and dry them in a faire cloath, then dish them in sippets in the bottom of a dish then power vpon it a quarter of a pint of the yuce of Sorrell, and set it vpoon a chafindish of coales, and when you bee ready to serve it, poure vpon it a little butter drawne thicke with the yuce of Sorrell, then strowe grose Pepper and Salt, put sippets about it and serve it then to the table hotte, your sauce will looke very green and the fish east pleasant and short.

-         1621. John Murrell. A Delightfull daily exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen. Falconwood Press: 1990. p. 38.

 

Biblical bread

 More sops

John 13:21-26   1599 Geneva Bible (GNV)

21 When Jesus had said these things, he was troubled in the Spirit, and [a]testified, and said, Verily, verily I say unto you, that one of you shall betray me.

22 Then the disciples looked one on another, doubting of whom he spake.

23 Now there was one of his disciples, which [b]leaned on Jesus’ bosom, whom Jesus loved.

24 To him beckoned therefore Simon Peter, that he should ask who it was of whom he spake.

25 He then as he leaned on Jesus’ breast, said unto him, Lord, who is it?

26 Jesus answered, He it is, to whom I shall give a sop, when I have dipped it: and he wet a sop, and gave it to Judas Iscariot, Simon’s son.

Otherwise take sorrel,…

April 28th, 2013 by KM Wall

sorrel

sorrel

If you love sorrel (and once you’ve tried it, you’ll probably like it) you’ll need to figure out how to grow it. It is seldom available in markets because once it’s cut, it’s ready to use – a very short shelf life.  But it’s very easy to grow, and once it’s established, it’s good for years. Unless the chickens find it and love it….or wild turkeys…but it keeps coming back all summer long and into the fall as the ultimate cut-and-come again garden herb.

 

To make green sauce

Take a handful, or greater quantity of sorrel, beat it in a mortar with pippins pared and quartered, add thereto a little vinegar and sugar, put it into saucers. Otherwise take sorrel, beat it and stamp it well in a mortar, squeeze out the juice of it, put thereto a little vinegar, sugar and two hard eggs minced small, a little butter and grated nutmeg, set this upon the coals till it is hot, and pour it into the dish on the sippets. This is sauce for hen or veal and bacon.

- 1664. Mrs Cromwells Cookery Book. p. 48.

This is a great sauce, and easy to make and easy to use.

So

  1. Take a handful of sorrel, wash it, remove the stems. Peel, core and quarter two small apples (pippins).  You can beat them in a mortar with a pestle OR give them a whirl in a food processor….and a little vinegar and sugar to adjust the flavor – this should be a sharp and bright sauce.
  2. OR Squeeze the juice out of several handfuls of sorrel (with whatever method you prefer)mix again with sugar and vinegar, butter and nutmeg. If you put the hard boiled egg through the blender or the food processor, the whole sauce will be thick, very rich and the flavor a little muted(which is good to keep in mind for the heat of summer, when the sorrel is not only sharp, but a little bitter). On the other hand, if you chop the eggs coarsely,the yolks thicken and enrich and the whites provide texture and contrast…..heat it, put it over sippets (that’s lovely little toasts of bread) and serve with hen or veal or pork  – bacon is sometimes fresh pork in the seventeenth century, although putting this sauce over toast and bacon for a Spring to Summer brunch….

Potato of Canada

January 11th, 2013 by KM Wall

The Story of the English Underground, Colonial Edition.cont

 

Jerusalem artichoke

from the OED:
2. Jerusalem Artichoke: a species of Sunflower (Helianthus tuberosus), a native of tropical America, cultivated in Europe, having edible tuberous roots, somewhat resembling the Artichoke proper in flavour.
‘The name of Jerusalem Artichoke is considered to be a corruption of the Italian Girasóle Articiocco or Sunflower Artichoke, under which name it is said to have been distributed from the Farnese garden at Rome, soon after its introduction to Europe in 1617.’ W. B. Booth in Treas. Bot.
1620 VENNER Via Recta vii. 134 Artichocks of Ierusalem, is a roote vsually eaten with butter, vinegar, and pepper.

1641 R. BROOKE Nat. Eng. Episc. I. iv. 16 Error being like the Jerusalem-Artichoake; plant it where you will, it overrunnes the ground and choakes the Heart.

also in New England:
Champlain at Nauset, 1605
“…and roots which they [Natives] cultivate, the later having the taste of an artichoke.” in Sailor’s Narratives, p. 87.

Jerusalem artichoke before they reach 7' tall and sprout yellow flowers

Gookin, 1674
“Also they [natives] mix with the _____ pottage several sorts of roots; as Jerusalem artichokes, and ground nuts and other roots…”

“We in England, from some ignorant and idle head, haue called them Artichokes of Jerusalem, only because the roote, being boyled, is in taste like the bottome of an Artichoke head: but they may most fitly be called, Potaoes of Canada, because their rootes are in some forme, colour and taste, like unto the Potatos of Virginia, but greater, and the French brought them first from Canada into these parts)…

 

“…but after they [the stalks] be withered, and so all the winter long vntill the Spring againe, they are good, and fit to bee taken vp and vsed, which are a number of tuberous round rootes, growing close together; so that it hath been obserued, that from one roote, being set in the Spring, there hath been forty or more taken up againe, and to haue ouer-filled a pecke measure, and are of a pleasant good taste as many haue tryed.”

-Parkinson, p. 518.

 

Jerusalem artichokes - the root part you eat (and why Parkinson calls them Potatoes of Canada)

The naming confusion continues – now (as in this morning) you can find them called :

  • sunchokes
  • sunroots
  • topinambour
  • earth apples

“The rootes are dressed diverse waies;

some boil them in water, and after stew them with sacke and butter, adding a little Ginger:

others bake them in pies, putting Marrow, Dates, Ginger, Raisons of the Sun, &c.

Others some other way, as they are led by their skill in Cookerie.

But in my judgement, which way soever they be drest and eaten they stir and cause a filthie loathesome stinking winde within the bodie, thereby causing the belly to be pained and tormented…

1633. John Gerard The Herbal p. 754

 

 


Everything old…..

January 10th, 2013 by KM Wall

Purple dragon carrot..

…is new again. This year’s seed catalogs have carrots in many colors. Like purple, although it looks rather more violet to me.

 

 

 

 

Purple sun carrots - these are almost black

 

 

Atomic Red carrots

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yellowstone carrots

 

 

The Story of the English Underground, Colonial Edition.Continued.

Chapter: Carrot.

Before carrots were orange – which is Soooooo Modern – so back in the good old Early Modern days, carrots were violet. Or black. And white. Yellow and even red. Just beginning to be seen in orange. Orange is tres Flemish and Dutch. The Dutch are very fond of Orange. Consider it Princely, even. The English, on the other hand, were fine with things they way they had always been. They were latecomers to the orange bandwagon.

Carrots color wheel- 21st AND 17th centuries

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Carrot colors are fashion – and have been for the last 400 years.

“A Carrot Sallad.

Carrots boyled and eaten with Vinegar, Oyle, and Pepper serve for a special good sallad to stirre up appetitie, and to purifie blood.”

-        1617 Wm Vaughn in Dining with William Shakespeare. Madge Lorwin.(1976)  p. 299.

 

 

Willem Frederik van Royen The Carrot 1699

Check out the World Carrot Museum. It’s on the blogroll. Totally amazing.

Beet it

December 13th, 2012 by KM Wall

Beets (and a few weeds) photo taken November 30th - still have fresh garden sass

 

More beets….

A boiled salad sounds a little, um, how shall I put this : wicked Early Modern and a little too,too Historical Cooking.

But many of the boiled salads are things that we eat boiled anyhow – carrots, beets, spinach. The lettuce takes some getting used to, but if you have a garden, and have lettuce start to bolt and get bitter, a little boiling goes a long way to get the bitterness out. Which you’ll have to remember for next summer, because it’s too cold for anything to think about bolting now.

To Prepare All Kinds of Cooked Salads.

Take the hearts of Head Lettuce, cooked just a little, or Chicory roots or Beetroot or Beets or stems of Purslane or stems of Beets after they have been peeled properly or young Green or Pole beans cooked until done or shoots of Hops, shoots of Elder, Onion, or Leeks; also red or white Cabbage cut fine and cooked a little while, everyone to his appetite and all of it well done. (These salads are) prepared with Oil of Olives, Vinegar, Salt, Pepper; for some (salads) one also takes Sugar or Currents according to taste.”

-         Sensible Cook, Rose, p. 45.

Garden bed November 30th - beets and spinach still growing

(1597)

 

“The great and beautiful Beet last described may be used in winter for a sallad herbe, with vineger, oyle, and salt, and is not onely pleasant to the taste, but also delightfull to the eye.”

-          Gerard, p. 319.

(1597)

“The great red Beet or Roman Beet, boyled and eaten with oyle, vinegar and pepper, is a most excellent and delicate sallad: but what might be made of the red and beautifull root (which is to be preferred before the leaves, as well in beauty as in goodnesse) I refer to the curiouos and cunning cooke, who no douby when he hath made view thereof, and is assured that it is both good and wholesome, will make thereof many and divers dishes both faire and good.”

- Gerard, p. 319.

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