Tagged ‘Thomas Morton’

SMELTS

April 21st, 2013 by KM Wall

 

smelt

smelts

“With rainbow colors, the frost fish and the smelt,

As good as ever Lady Gustus felt.”

-         1634. William Wood. New Englands Prospect. UMass Press:1977. p. 54.

 

“[Roxbury] …having a clear and fresh brook running through the town, up which there come no alewives yet there is great store of smelts, and therefore is called Smelt Brook.”

- 1634. William Wood. New Englands Prospect. UMass Press:1977. p. 58.

 

800px-Pond_smelt_illustration

“Of Smelts there is such abundance, that the Salvages doe take them up in the rivers with baskets, like sives.”

-         1636. Thomas Morton, New English Canaan. p.89.

 

Catching fish in a basket - European style, 1555

Catching fish in a basket – European style, 1555

“ …Shrimps   Smelt   Spurlin….”

(1674) John Josslyn, Colonial Traveler . University Press of New England. 1988. p.82.

Turkey Week

October 23rd, 2012 by KM Wall

Turkey - old school

It’s really hard – make that Mission: IMPOSSIBLE to have anything to do with the food of Plymouth Colony and to not have turkeys mentioned.  But because everyone else brings it up, and already knows from turkey sometimes I don’t feel the need to mention them. But here they are.

Turkey flying - or is this a sally?

“ Turkeys there are, which diverse times in great flocks have sallied by our doors; and then a gun (being commonly in readiness) salutes them with such courtesy as makes them take a turn in the cook-room, they dance by our door so well.

“Of these there hath been killed that weighed forty-eight pound apiece.

“They are by many degrees sweeter than the tame Turkeys of England, feed them how you can.

“I had a Salvage who hath taken out his boy in a morning, and they brought home their loads about noon.

“I have asked them what number they found in the woods, who have answered Neent Metawna, which is a thousand that day: the plenty of them is such in those parts. They are easily killed at roost because the one being killed, the other sit fast nevertheless, and this is no bad commodity.”

1637.  Thomas Morton. New English Cannan. Jack Dempsey, ed. 1999. p. 64.

Turkey boy in the spring

“The Turkey is a very large bird, of a black color yet white in flesh, much bigger than our English turkey. He hath the use of his long legs so ready that he can run as fast as a dog and fly as well as a goose. Of these sometimes there will be forty, threescore, and an hundred of a flock, sometimes more and sometimes less. Their feeding is acorns, haws and berries; some of them get a haunt to frequent our English corn. In winter when the snow covers the ground, they resort to the seashore to look for shrimps and such small fishes at low tide. Such as love turkey hunting must follow it in winter after a new fallen snow, when he may follow them by their tracks. Some have killed ten or a dozen in half a day. If they can be found towards an evening and watched where they perch, if one come about ten or eleven of the clock, he may shoot as often as he will; they will sit unless they be slenderly wounded. These turkey remain all the year long. The price of a good turkey cock is four shillings, and he is well worth it, for he may be in weight forty pound, a hen two shillings.”

1634. William Wood. New England’s Prospect ( Alden Vaughan, ed. University of Mass. Press: 1977.pp. 50-1.)

 

and if you’ve never heard a turkey call.…here’s the link. More turkeys and recipes coming up.

EEL – fat and sweet

October 18th, 2012 by KM Wall

 

 

 

 

“Fryday [23 March 1620/21] was a very faire day, Samoset and Squanto still remained with vs, Squanto went at noone to fish for Eeles, at night he came home with as many as he could well lift in one hand, which our people were glad of, they were fat & sweete, he trod them out with his feete, and so caught them with his hands without any other Instrument, ”

1622 Mourt’s Relation – fasc. ed. p. 39.

Eel fork or eel spear, Dutch, 17th century

“ In March the eels come forth out of places where they lie bedded all winter, into the fresh streams, and there into the sea, and in their passages are taken in pots. In September they run out of the sea into the fresh streams, to bed themselves in the ground all winter, and are taken again in pots as they return homewards. In the winter the inhabitants dig them up, being bedded in gravel not above two or three foot deep, and all the rest of the year they may take them in pots in the salt water of the bay. They are passing sweet, fat and wholesome, having no taste of mud, and are as great as ever I saw any.”

1622/23. Three Visitors (John Pory), p.7.

“ Of Eels there is abundance, both in the Salt-waters and in the fresh; and freshwater Eel there (if I may take the judgment of a London fishmonger) is the best he hath found in his lifetime. I have with ji eele pots fed my household (being nine persons, besides dogs) with them, taking them every tide for 4 months space and preserving of them for winter store; and these may prove a good commodity.” 1

1637. New English Cannan. P.8.

Medieval eel trap from the Tower of London moat, on display in the Museum of London

“There are several wayes of cooking them [eels], some love them roasted, others baked, and many will have them fryed; but they please my palate best when they are boiled, a common way to boil them in half water, half wine with the bottom of a machet, a fagot of Parsley, and a little winter savory, when they are boiled take them out and break the bread in the broth, and put to it three or four spoonfuls of yeast, and a piece of sweet butter, this they pour to their Eals laid upon sippets and so serve up. I fancie my way better which is this, after the Eals are fley’d and washt I fill their bellies with Nutmeg grated and Cloves a little bruised, and sow them up with a needle and thred, then I stick a Clove here and there in their sides about an inch asunder, making holes for them with a bodkin, this done I wind them up in a wreath and put them in a kettle with half water and half white wine –vinegar, so much as will rise four fingers above the Eals; in the midst of the Eals I put the bottom of a penny white loaf, a fagot of these herbs following, Parsley one handful, a little sweet Marjoram, Peniroyal and Savory, a branch of Rosemary, bind them up with a tred, and when they are boiled enough take out the Eals and pull out the treds that their bellies were sowed up with, turn out the Nutmeg and Cloves, put the Eals in a dish with butter and vinegar upon a chafing-dish with coals to keep warm, then put into the broth three or four spoonfuls of good Ale-yeast with the juice of half a Lemmon; but before you put in your yeast beat it in a porringer with some of the broth, then break the crust of bread very small and mingle it well with the other half of the Lemmon, and so serve them up to the Table in two dishes.”

- 1674. Josslyn, Two Voyages. p. 79-80

 

Judith Leyster, A Boy and a Girl with a Cat and an Eel

 

Rabbit Season

October 13th, 2012 by KM Wall

European Hare

American Hare

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“The Hare in New-England is no bigger than our English Rabbets, of the same colour, but withal having yellow and black strokes down the ribs; in Winter they are milk white, and as the Spring approacheth they come to their colour; when the Snow lies upon the ground they are very bitter with feeding upon the bark of Spruce, and the like.”

-  1672.John Josselyn, New-Englands Rarities Discovered. Mass. Hist.ed. p.22.

“Here are great store of Coneys* in these parts, of diverse colors: some white, some black, and some gray. Those towards the southern parts are very small, but those to the north are as big as the English Cony: their ears are very short. For the meat the small rabbit is as good as any that I have eaten of elsewhere.”

*(Rhymes with ‘money’ and ‘honey’. A rabbit is a young coney (like a puppy is a young dog…) no bunnies please, unless you mean bunions.)

1637Thomas Morton, New English Canaan, Dempsey ed. p.76

 

Rabbit season starts the Saturday after Columbus Day – which means in 2012 Duck Season and Rabbit Season start on the same day – today! Rabbits (conies) and hares are not the same animal, although they are often cooked in a  similar fashion.

European rabbit

American rabbit

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Mallard smoard, or a Hare, or old Cony

Take a Mallard when it is cleane dressed, washed and trust, and parboyle it in water till it be skumd and purified; then take it up, and put it into a Pipkin with the neck down-ward, and the tayle upward, standing as it were upright; then fill the Pipkin halfe full with that water, in which the Mallard parboyled, and fill up the other halfe with White Wine; then pill and slice thin a good quantitie of Onyons, and put them in with whole fine Hearbs, according to the time of the yeare, as Lettice, Strawberry leaves, Violet leaves, Vines leaves, Spinage, Endive, Succorie, and such like, which have no bitter or hard taste, and a pretty quantitie of Currants and ates sliced; then cover it close, and set it on a gentle fire, and let it stew, and smoare (to smother, to cook in a closed vessel) till the Hearbs and Onyons be soft, and the Mallard enough; then take out the Mallard, and carve it as it were to goe to the Table; then to the Broath put a good lumpe of Butter, Sugar, Cianmon; and if it be in some, so many Goose-berries as will give it a sharpe taste, but in the Winter as much Wine Vinegar; then heate it on the fire, and stirre all well together; then lay the Mallard in a dish with Sippets, and powre all this broth upon it; then trim the Egges of the dish with Sugar, and so serve it up. And in this manner you may also smoare the hinder parts of a Hare, or a whole old Conie, being trust up close together.

- Gervase Markham, The English Housewife p. 78.

 

Eastern Cottontail- run quick, like a bunny!

 

 

 

Albrect Durer - A Young Hare

 

 

Two Rabbits in a Landscape

 

 

Autumn in New England: It’s for the BIRDS

October 2nd, 2012 by KM Wall

 

Of the Birds and Fowls Both of the Land and Water.

The princely eagle, and soaring hawk,
Whom in their unknown ways there’s none can chalk:
The humbird for some queen’s rich cage more fit,
Than in the vacant wilderness to sit.
The swift-winged swallow sweeping to and fro,
As swift as arrow from Tartarian bow.
When as Aurora’s infant day new springs,
There the morning mounting lark her sweet lays sings.
The harmonious thrush, swift pigeon, turtledove,
Who to her mate doth ever the constant prove.
The turkey-pheasant, heathcock, partridge rare,
The carrion-tearing crow, and hurtful stare,
The long-lived raven, the ominous screech-owl,
Who tells, as old wives say, diasters foul.
The drowsy madge that leaves her day day-loved nest,
And loves to rove when day-birds be at rest;
The eel-murthering hearn, and greedy cormorant,
That near the creeks in Moorish marshes haunt.
The bellowing bittern, the long-legged crane,
Presaging winters hard, and dearth of grain.
The silver swan that tunes her mournful breath,
To sing the dirge of her approaching death.
The tatling oldwives, and the cackling geese,
The fearfull gull that shuns the murthering piece.
The strong winged mallard, with the nible teal,
And ill-shaped loon who his harsh notes doth squeal.
There widgins, sheldrakes, and humilities,
Snites, doppers, sea-larks, in whole millions flee.
- 1634. William Wood. New Englands Prospect. p. 48-9, Vaughn ed.

Perceive:

“…I will show you a description of the fowls of the air, as most proper in the ordinary course. And first of the Swan, because she is the biggest of all the fowls of that country. There are of them in Merrimac River and other parts of the country, great store of them at the seasons of the year.

“The flesh is not much desired of the inhabitants, but the skins may be accompted a commodity, fit for diverse uses, both for feathers and quills.”

- 1637 Morton, T.  New English Canaan, Dempsey ed.p.62.

Swans

“There be likewise many swans which frequent the fresh ponds and rivers, seldom consorting themselves with ducks and geese. These be very good meat: the price of one is six shillings.”

- Wood, W.  New Englands Prospect.. 52

 

Swimming swan

Identify:

The native swan (now known as the whistling swan or the Tundra swan: Cygnus columbianus) should not to be confused with more newly introduced Mute Swan – that the one with the little ball on their orange beak:

Mute Swan - orange beak -not native in New England

 

Although, when they’re feeding, it’s hard to tell them apart.

Eat:

To Bake all manner of Sea-Fowl, as Swan, Whopper, to be eaten cold.

Take a swan, bone, parboil, and lard it with great lard, two ounces of pepper, three of nutmeg, and four of salt, season the fowl, and lay it in the pye, with a good store of butter, strew a few whole cloves on the rest of the seasoning, lay on large sheets of lard over it, and good store of butter: then close it up in a rye-paste or meal course boulted, and make up with boiling liquor, and make it up stiff: or you may bake them to eat hot, only give them half the seasoning.

In place of baking any of these fowls in pyes, you may bake them in earthen pans or pots, for to be preserved cold, they will keep the longer.

In the same manner you may bake all sorts of wild geese, tame geese, bran-geese, muscovia ducks, gulls, shovellers, herns, bitterns, curlews, heath-cocks, teals, ollines, ruffes, brewes, pewits, mews, sea-pies, dap-chickens, strents, dotterils, knots, gravelins, ox-eyes, red shanks, & c.

-            1678(4th ed) Robert May. The Accomplist Cook. p. 124. Falconwood Press ed.:1992.

Swan pie - all dressed up

And the answer is…..

July 9th, 2012 by Carolyn

 

 

Leeks!!

 

“The leaves or the blades of the Leek be long, somewhat broad, and very many, having a keel or crest in the backside, in smell and taste like to the onion. The stalks, if the blades be not often cut, do in the second or third year grow up round, bringing forth on the top flowers made up in a round head or ball as doth the Onion.”  (Gerard, John “The Herbal” 1633)

Onions and leeks look very similar when they flower. They way to tell them apart is that the leaves of the leeks are board and flat, while those of the onion are round and hollow. Here is a full length view:

 

 

Leeks were used in cookery, but beware they are very “hot” in temperature and may offset your humors as this passage warns:

 

“The Hurts

It heateth the body, ingendreth naughty bloud, causeth troublesome and terrible dreams, offendeth the eyes, dulleth the sight, hurteth those that are by nature hot and choleric, and is noysome to the stomach, and breadth windiness.” (Johnson, Thomas ed. Gerard, John “The Herbal” 1633, pg. 174-175)

 

So go ahead enjoy your leeks, but beware of impending windiness.

 

Fish Heads – references and recipes, no pictures

June 16th, 2012 by KM Wall

“When there is a great store of them[bass], we eat only their heads and salt up the bodies for winter, which exceeds ling or haberdine.”

William Wood, New Englands Prospect. 1634.Vaughn ed. p. 55

 

When [bass] are so large, the head of one will give a good eater a dinner, and for daintiness of diet they excel the marybones of beef.

Thomas Morton, New English Canaan. 1637.Dempsey ed. p. 84.

The reason there are so many roly-poly fish heads in New England is because  salt fish are just the bodies. After you catch it, and  scale it and garbage it, you cut the head off. Not all bits of the fish salt up well. That leaves you lots of heads to eat right away. And there’s plenty of good eating in the head of a fish. The cheeks and the jowls are well esteemed, and then and still in fishing communities.

And a little note on our two authors – Thomas Morton mentions a certain   Wooden Prospect several time with not a little disdain in his New Englands Canaan…whatever could he be referring to?

To Fry a Codshead

First cleve it in pieces and washe it cleane and fry it in Butter or Oyle. Then cut onions in rundels and so fry them, that doon put them in a vessel, and put to them red wine or vingre, salt, ginger, sinamon, cloves & mace, and boile all these well together, and then serve it upon your cods head.”

A.W.  A Booke of Cookrye . 1591.London. p. 12.

To Fry a Fish head

Vocabulary:

  • Cleve means to cut  – you might use a cleaver
  • Rundels are slices cut the round way, which make these boiled onion rings…..
  • Doon means done
  • Vinegre is vinegar, and it’s interesting to see vinegar and wine being considered interchangeable.  Usually you cut the vinegar with a little water and and a small (very small, perhaps a pinch or two) of sugar.
  • Sinamon is cinnamon – you probably figured that one out.
  • Mace is a spice that tastes like nutmeg. It actually is the outer coating of the nutmeg, so if you don’t have mace use some nutmeg instead.

Remove the gills and rinse off your fish heads, which can be cod, bass, halibut, or salmon. Seventeenth century New England cod and bass were running between 20 and 50 pounds, which is somewhat larger that what’s generally caught now. Emmanuel Altham in 1623 caught a cod of 100 pounds. Seriously larger then what’s caught now.

This recipe has you cut the head into pieces and fry that in butter or oil. Pretty simple, but if you rather not have have the fish give you the fish eye at the table, you can boil it, and then fry the meat you’ve picked off to make a fricassee.

To make the sauce: Mix together red wine or red wine vinegar (I’d add a little water to the vinegar) with spices and oil them together.  This gives the spices to mix and meld. The smell is fantastic, and would remind our English housewife of hypocryse, a spiced wine beverage. When the sauce has somewhat mellowed, and the sharp edges have boiled off the wine and the spice, pour it over the fish. Sops of bread to catch up all the sauce would not be the least bit amiss.

Eat them up, YUM.

 

 

 


 


Eat Like A Pilgrim: Sauce for a Turkie

April 17th, 2012 by KM Wall

Sauce for a Turkie
Take faire water and set it over the fire, then slice good store of Onions and put into it, and also Pepper and Salt, and good store of the gravy that comes from the Turkie, and boyle them very well together: then put to it a few fine crummes of grated bread to thicken it; a very little Sugar and some Vinegar, and so serve it up with the Turkey:
Gervase Markham , The English Huswife, 1623

To make this at home:

6 medium onions, sliced thinly
2 cups of water
2 teaspoons of coarsely ground pepper
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
¼ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup breadcrumbs (optional)

Follow your favorite recipe for roast turkey. Remove the turkey to a platter reserving the pan juices.

Place thinly sliced onions in a pot with water and salt. Bring to a boil over medium high heat and cook until the onions are tender but not mushy. A good deal of the water should have boiled away. Set aside for a moment.

Place the roasting pan over medium heat and stir to loosen any brown bits. Stir in the onion sauce, sugar, vinegar and breadcrumbs if desired. Pepper? Taste and adjust seasonings. To serve, pour over sliced turkey or serve alongside in a separate dish.

 

NOTES:

The gravy is the drippings.
Onions are mentioned in William Bradford’s garden verse :

” All sorts of roots and herbs in gardens grow,
Parsnips, carrots, turnips, or what you’ll sow,
Onions, melons, cucumbers, radishes,
Skirrets, beets, coleworts, and fair cabbages.”
- 1654. Bradford, William. Verses.
- Massachusetts Historical Society. p. 61.

“ Turkeys there are, which diverse times in great flocks have sallied by our doors; and then a gun (being commonly in readiness) salutes them with such courtesy as makes them take a turn in the cook-room, they dance by our door so well.
“Of these there hath been killed that weighed forty-eight pound apiece.
“They are by many degrees sweeter than the tame Turkeys of England, feed them how you can.

- 1637. Thomas Morton. New English Cannan. Jack Dempsey, ed. 1999. p. 64.

XXX

Coney rhymes with money and honey

April 10th, 2012 by KM Wall

“Here [New England] there are great store of Coneys in these parts, of diverse colors: some white, some black, some gray. Those towards the southern parts are very small, but those to the north are as big as the English Cony: their ears are very short. For the meat the small rabbit is as good as any that I have eaten of elsewhere.”
- Thomas Morton. New English Canaan. 1637. Dempsey ed. p. 76.

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