Tagged ‘recipe’

Sweet! Potato Pie

November 24th, 2013 by KM Wall
Potato illustration from John Gerard The Herbal

Potato illustration from John Gerard The Herbal

To make a Potato Pie.
Boyl your Spanish Potaoes (not overmuch) cut them forth in slices as thick as your thumb, season them with Nutmeg, Cinamon, Ginger, and Sugar; your Coffin being ready, put them in, over the bottom, add to them the Marrow of about three Marrow-bones, seasoned as aforesaid, a handful of stoned Raisons of the Sun, some quartred Dates, Orangado, Cittern, with Ringo-root sliced, put butter over it, and bake them: let their lear be a little Vinegar, Sack and Sugar, beaten up with the yolk of an Egg, and a little drawn Butter; when your Pie is enough, pour in, shake it together, scrape on Sugar, garnish it, and serve it up.
- 1661. William Rabisha. The Whole Body of Cookery, Dissected. London.

John Gerard with potato flowers in the frontispiece of The Herbal

John Gerard with potato flowers in the frontispiece of The Herbal

Now, about this pie……

Although sweet potato pie is much more of a mainstay in the South, but pies made from potatoes go back to the 17th century in England.

And not a marshmallow to be found.

  1. Boil the potatoes. Last winter, in the Hardcore Hearth Cooking Workshop, we boiled five pounds of sweet potatoes. Boil them whole so that they don’t get waterlogged. Drain, cool, and peel.
  2. Slice them as thick as tour thumb…I took this to mean in one inch slices – larger chunks versus smaller bits. There’s still some cooking to come, and you don’t want paste.
  3. Powder your spices – nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, sugar – sounds an awful lot like pumpkin pie spice……
  4. Put the spices and sugared potato slices in a pastry lined dish, like this:
  5. Sweet potato, spices in pastry lined dish for pie - Debra Samuels  photo credit

    Sweet potato, spices in pastry lined dish for pie – Debra Samuels photo credit

  6. If you have marrow from marrow bones, add it now. If you do not have marrow, do not panic – add some generous dollops of butter.
  7. Add raisins of the sun without there stones (thank you seedless grapes that make seedless raisin!); quartered dates – it’s 5 pounds of potatoes, be generous.
  8. Orangeo, cittern and eringo root are probably not on your shelf…leave them out – a little grated orange rind or candied orange peel would not be amiss. Add a little more butter on the top to melt down   on the whole thing, put on the top crust and cut a vent in the center.
  9. Bake. Start at 450 and turn the oven down to 375 after 10 or 15 minutes (you know your oven better then I do). The top should be golden brown and the insides should smell GLORIOUS….but wait, we’re not done yet….this is the part that puts it over the top
  10. When the pie pan is cool enough to lift, beat and egg yolk with some sack wine, sugar, a little vinegar and drawn butter . Pour this lear into the vent hole, and shake it up . Another word for this is to shog it – sprinkle some sugar on the top, and serve.

 

Modern Sweet Potato Pie seems a little plain after the 17th century version...

Modern Sweet Potato Pie seems a little plain after the 17th century version…

Sweet Potato Pie - music to cook by?

Sweet Potato Pie – music to cook by?

Another group with an album Sweet Potato Pie

Another group with an album Sweet Potato Pie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sweet Potato Pie - Brand New Day

Sweet Potato Pie – Brand New Day

National Indian Pudding Day

November 13th, 2013 by KM Wall

Sampe Fest wasn’t just about Jonnycakes….

It was also about Indian Pudding. Or as it was sometimes referred to:

Indian-meal Pudding

Samp Fest 2013

Samp Fest 2013

Big Batch Indian Pudding

3 Quarts milk

2 cups cornmeal (Plimoth Grist Mill cornmeal is the best!)

1 jar (12 ounces) molasses (non-sulphered or mild)

1 stick butter (1/4 pound)

6 eggs

4 teaspoons cinnamon

2 tsp ginger

 

 

Butter a large slow cooker and pre-heat on high.

Use a large heavy bottomed pan on the stove (so the milk doesn’t scorch). The milk will rise up when it heats, so give it plenty of room. When the milk is just under a boil (lots of bubbles forming), whisk in the cornmeal; keep stirring until the cornmeal thickens about 10-15 minutes. Add the rest of the butter, turn off the heat and cover the pan.

Beat the eggs with the molasses and the spices.

Add some of the hot corn/milk mixture to temper the eggs and then add that to the rest of the corn mixture. Blend thoroughly. Scrape into the buttered, pre-heat slow cooker.

Cook on low for 6-8 hours.

Serve with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream or light cream…..

 

Options:

Raisins, cranberries or chopped apples may be added into the slow cooker, either a little or a lot.

There’s a real divide with the fruit people – they love it or hate it!

 

It’s also good re-heated for breakfast.

 Cinnamon whipped cream is also pretty heavenly….

plimoth grist mill prodcut

 

 

 

Jonnycakes, or what’s in a name

November 6th, 2013 by KM Wall

127_1196

Sampe Fest 2013 was a great hit!

Sampe, of course, is course ground corn meal, the best being from Plimoth Grist Mill. Cornmeal, fine ground and course were the backbone of the New England diet in the 17th century, both Wamponoag and English.

Jonnycakes were at one time common all along the Eastern seaboard, and even into the Carribean. They look like pancakes, but they act like bread.

They start with fresh ground whole corn meal…..after this. the variations/disagreements begin…

In Rhode Island, the last bastion and fiercest defender/supporter state for the jonnycake they insist on Flint Corn and flint corn alone. Flint corn is one of several varieties of corn – Zea mays indurata – and was the commonest kind of corn grown in New England until the 1930′s.

200px-Corncobs

Flint corn is now either yellow or white….although the mufti-colored corn was not uncommon in 17th century New England

Now, with the freshly ground corn, you have to choose- water or milk as the liquid. Either is right and either is wrong.

Sigh.

I picked water.

The real secret is that it is HOT milk or boiling water. It really does react with the cornmeal and improves the whole process.

 

 

Corn meal and boiling water

Corn meal and boiling water…

Start with 1 cup corn meal to 1 – 1 1/2 cups boiling water. Add a pinch of salt. Some will add a little sugar, and arguments will ensue. Mix well.

 

Bacon drippings....

Bacon drippings….

Now – to bake or to fry? According to one source, proper jonnycake is baked in front of an open fire on the center  red oak plank of a flour barrel…..or fried in a pan, with either butter or bacon drippings. For Saturdays demonstration I used bacon drippings.

Cast iron skillet - well seasoned it's non-stick with the nonstick surface issues

Cast iron skillet – well seasoned it’s non-stick with the nonstick surface issues

 

A cast iron pan is best, because you want it hot. According to some sources the proper size for a proper Rhode Island jonnycake is “3″x3″x1/2″ in size” – I didn’t measure mine…..and they were probably too thin.

The first recipe for jonnycakes shows up in Amelia Simmons American Cookery of 1796 . She is from Connecticut and not Rhode Island. Then she moves to New York, which is also not Rhode Island. :

Johny Cake, or Hoe Cake

Scald 1 pint of milk and put to 3 pints of indian meal, and half pint of flower — bake before the fire. Or scald with milk two thirds of the indian meal, or wet two thirds with boiling water, and salt, molasses and shortening, work up with cold water pretty stiff, and bake as above.

1796. Amelia Simmons. American Cookery. Hartford (Dover reprint edition) p. 34.

SOOOO – who is Jonny (however you might spell his name) and how does he rate his own cake?

There are several theories……

Jonny is short for journey….or Jonakin or jannock…and who has mentioned  jannock before?????

Why, none other then our dear friend Gervase Markham!

Chapter VII

The excellency of oats, and the many singular virtues and uses of them in a family

The virtues of oatmeal.

…..:also with this small oatmeal is made in divers* countries six several kinds of very good and wholesome bread, every one finer than other , as your annacks, janacks, and such like. Also there is made of it both thick and thin oaten cakes, which are very pleasant in taste, and much esteemed: but if it be mixed with a fine wheat meal, then it maketh a most delicate and dainty oatcake, either thick or thin, such as no prince in the world but may have served to his table;…

1631. Gervase Markham. The English Housewife. Michael Best, ed. p. 202.

* divers in this instance means diverse, not

Llyod Bridges, Sea Hunt

Lloyd Bridges, Sea Hunt

 

 

Flip and keep cooking. They take their own sweet time. These are NOT pancakes.

Flip and keep cooking. They take their own sweet time. These are NOT pancakes.

 

And how do you serve them ?  Hot,  hot, hot. Some  say with butter and maple syrup. Some say with butter and honey. Some say you can’t eat them cold …..but I have, with cranberry sauce, and I’m none the worse for it.

They smell and taste better then I’m able to make them look.

-  Yaniqueques  (sound it out...) from the Dominican Republic

– Yaniqueques (sound it out…) from the Dominican Republic

I met people from Maine who were fond of jonnycakes, and people from Massachusetts, and Rhode Island, as well as one woman from Bermuda….in the South they call them hoe-cakes ( a hoe being a kind of a pan, not the garden instrument).

plimoth grist mill prodcut

Where there’s a MILL there’s a way!

Lagniappe

October 15th, 2013 by KM Wall

something a little extra re: Italian Puddings…..

Richard Sax

Richard Sax

All the while, while  dipping in Italian  Pudding I  kept  thinking I was smelling  chocolate. Serious chocolate.

There is no chocolate mentioned in ANY of the 17th century English cookbooks I was searching through  AT ALL …..and then I remembered.

In Richard Sax’s Classic Home Desserts – which is a totally great cookbook, with wonderful recipes, great photos and stories and histories – there is an Italian Bread Pudding.

It is baked (or bakte).

The bread is cut into cubes. (Are you getting chills yet?)

In with the eggs and cream, there is also  chocolate.

Taste and memory, working together again.

Classic Home Dessert - Richard Sax

Classic Home Desserts – Richard Sax

Budino Nero (Italian Chocolate Bread Pudding)

First published in 1994, the book is still in print, so to avoid copyright issues, let me tell you that basically it’s the same Italian Pudding that John Murrell and W.I make, with equal amounts of semi-sweet chocolate and cubed bread by weight. That is, 3 ounces of bread (which is about 4 cups cubed) should have 3 ounces of chopped semi-sweet chocolate . Melt the chocolate in the cream or milk, before beating in the eggs (let it cool a little, don’t be impatient) and then gently add the cubed bread. Put it into a greased dish, bake  – not too hot, at 350° for about 1/2 an hour – don’t bake it too long – it should be a little wobbly, but it will firm up as it cools. You can add some sugar in, or wait to scrape – or sprinkle  -some on top.

Cacao - from John Gerard, The Herbal

Cacao – and other odd bobs of things – from Johnson on Gerard,The Herbal, 1633.

Chocolate in early 17th century had some PR issues. The name – Cacao -say it aloud, you know what it means, – means, well, sh_t in Spanish, and the same for Englishmen. I believe it was the Dutch who changed it to “Cocao”. What a difference one little letter makes. The rest is, as we say, HISTORY.

A giant Budina Nero – made in the large size Pyrex bowl was

The big one - and it was also a green one

The big one – and it was also a green one

 the BEST Birthday Cake EVER.

For the life of me I can’t remember which birthday, but it probably ended with a zero or a five….and the pudding was made by assorted Foodways deities  was a surprise and a delight. And a taste memory extraordinaire.

 

French Bread, 17th century style

September 29th, 2013 by KM Wall

Excerpts from a translation from the French. Thank you Lisa Whalen!

Country Delights by N. Bonnefon

Book One

Of Bread

Chapter 1

 

The most necessary of all foods that God’s goodness has created for sustaining the life of Man is Bread; so does his blessing extend over this nourishment such that never does one distaste it; and the most costly of Meats cannot be eaten without Bread; Thus this is where we will begin our work; with the manner of making Bread, of every sort that is fashioned in Paris, the place where meet Men of all Nations and Provinces, who with one common voice agree, that in Paris is eaten the best Bread in the World.

To make good Bread, not only are good corns preferable to lesser; but also the Mill, the Water, the Oven, & the Manner must needs contribute.

As for Corns; whole Wheat, clean [net][1], healthy, of good color, this we must esteem above the other grains; as Rye, Oats, Barley, Peas, Beans, Vetch, & other grains that the Poor put into their Bread for cheapness.

….

For the Waters; their goodness is so necessary that it is one of the principle components that makes excellent Bread; as we see by the example of Paris, where the Bread is made in the manner of Gonesse even though it is wrought by the same Bakers, & with the same Wheat, nevertheless it is much inferior both in savor and goodness, than that made in the place itself; which is why one must necessarily believe that this is because the Waters of the Country wholly contribute.

There are four sorts of Water: to be acquainted with, water from the River, from the Spring, from the Well and Rainwater, which is kept in Ponds or Cisterns: Draw a pint of each and take the lightest[1] as the best; if every time you want to make a trial of Bread; this will be the most certain way to judge its goodness.

…..

And for the METHOD; we will speak first of Common Bread, the more wheat, the better the bread, nonetheless if you wish to make a good sort of Bread for the Servants, put to the Mill four Minots[1] of Rye, one minot of Barley; (which is around the Oven) & bolt it an a large Bolting Cloth.

Of this Flour, you take about a Minot at ten in the Evening and put it to leaven, that you cover well with the same flour.

To moisten it; it is necessary that in Winter the Water be hotter than you can tolerate with your hand; in Summer, it is sufficient that it be a little warm; and thus tempered proportionally in the two other seasons.

On the morrow, at dawn, you put the rest of your Flour to leaven, and knead the whole, brewing [brassant] your Paste a long time, keeping it stiff enough, for the softer it is, the more bread you will have; but also the less it will last you in that one eats much more when it is light, than when it is stiff.

Your Paste being well worked, return it to the Trough, turning the top under and driving your Fist into the middle of the Paste, to the depth of the Trough, in two or three places, and cover it well with sacks & covers.

At the end of a certain time (more in Winter & less in Summer,) look at your Paste, & you will see your holes entirely filled; this is the sign that the Paste is sufficiently risen; so have a second person heat the Oven (because it is nearly impossible for one alone to attend both Oven and Paste;) divide it in pieces, making them each about sixteen pounds in weight, or a little more; then turn this Paste into Loaves, & lay it on a Table Cloth, making a fold between each Loaf, for fear that they don’t kiss in ripening.

Your Oven being hot, which you recognize when by rubbing a staff against the Roof, or against the Hearth, you will see that there will be small sparklings of fire; this is an indicator that it is hot, so you will cease heating it, and remove the Firebrands and Coals, setting some few of the burning Embers in a bank near the mouth of the Oven, & clean it with the malkin that will be made of old linen, the which you moisten in clear Water & wring it before you swab[2], then you it up to allow it to abate its heat which blackens the Bread; & a little time later open it, to fill the oven as quickly as you can, set the largest Loaves at the back and sides of  the Oven, finishing filling the oven near the middle.

He that heats the Oven, take care not to burn his wood all over at the same time, but heat it presently of one side, anon of the other, continually cleaning the ash and drawing them out with the Oven-fork.[3]

The Bread having been set in, close well the mouth of the Oven and stop around with wet linen cloths, in order for him to well conserve his heat; four hours after, which is about the time necessary to cook the large Loaves; pull out one, to see if it is cooked enough, & particularly underneath, which one calls having the Hearth [avoir de l’Atre], and knock it with your fingertips; if it sounds, and it is firm enough, it be time to take it out, if not allow it still some more time, until you see it cooked, experience will soon render you able to know; because if you leave it in the Oven past perfect cooking, it will redden inside and will be unsavory.

Your Bread being removed, place it on the most cooked side, so that it regains moisture while cooling: for example, if there is too much Roof (which sets in the way when one doesn’t withdraw the ashes while heating the Oven,) so put it upside down, and if it is equally well backed, prop it against the Wall, placing it on the side that is most cooked.

Let your Bread cool well, before shutting it in the Hutches, where you always put it on its side; so that when it is put away, it has air equally around it; & in Summer put the Hutches in the Cellar to preserve the Bread’s moisture.

Always eat first, those that are the worst made, & least baked, because the better baked will re-soften with time.

Household management wants one always to have a batch of stale bread when one makes new.



[1] Minot is the half of a mine; or three French Bushels although a minot of oats, salt or vegetables (except onions) contains four bushels. (A minot of onions or nuts is a different measure.) Cotgrave.

[2] Neither “swab” nor “mop” are appropriate English usage for early 17th c. Usually in English they said “clean with a maulkin,”

not nearly so evocative. In French they had a very handy verb, a single word that meant the same thing.

[3] “Termed in Lincolnshire a Fruggin wherewith fuel is both put into an Oven and stirred when it is (on fire) in it”. Cotgrave

 

 


[1] I think lightest in weight not lightest in color

 


[1] Evelyn translates “net” as weight, which it may be but I think that the passage is describing wheat that is good looking.

Toasts

September 22nd, 2013 by KM Wall

Ever since I asked a group if they knew how to make toast – and they all did – and then I asked if they had learned to make toast from a recipe – and none had – I felt I had made my point of how people learned to cook without cookbooks. Great example.
And then I started finding recipes for toast.
LOTS of toast recipes.

Which doesn’t even include the places where toast shows up as an ingredient – sometimes sops, sometimes sippets, sometimes toast….

A Marrow Toast

Mince colde parboiled Veale, and Suit very fine, and sweet Hearbes each by themselves, and then mingle them together with Sugar, Nutmeg, Sinamon, Rosewater, grated bread, the yolkes of two or three new layd Egges: open the minst meat, and cover it with the marrow. Then put your toast into a Pipkin with the uppermost of some strong broth: let it boyle with large Mace, a Fagot of sweer hearbs, scum them passing cleane, and let them boyle almost drye. Then take Potato-rootes boyld, or Chestnuts, Skirrootes, or Almonds, boyld in white Wine, and for want of Wine you may take Vergis and Sugar.

1615. John Murrell. A New Booke of Cookerie. Falconwood Press: 1989. p. 19.

 

marrow bones on toast - not quite the 17th century version

Marrow bones on toast – not quite the 17th century version of Marrow Toasts- it’s the centers of the bones that can be taken out and used in the recipe, that’s the marrow

 

Marrow the vegetable, which is a member of he squash family - also known as a pompion

Marrow the vegetable, which is a member of he squash family – also known as a pompion

 

Pipkins from Hamberg

Pipkins from Hamberg

Bread crumb trails, part two

September 20th, 2013 by KM Wall

Bread in early modern English resources.

Sources aren’t nearly enough to make an exhibit of daily life. Even if everyday, real-time Plimoth Colony 1627 weren’t the exhibit, all those sources need context. That’s the job of resources.

So,  while  any of the cookbooks that we draw from is a primary source of 17th century English foodways,

BUT since  not a single one of them, not even in copied out commonplace book form, has been found in connection with Plymouth, they are resources for our 162 7 exhibit.

They are the the thing that fills out the pieces of the picture that we have, but they’re done in a mutable way, as if food could be anything else. The Plymouth Colony Primary Sources are the Alpha and the Omega. All resources have to fit within the parameters of the known, and are to be used to flesh out  the Plymouth sources. Not instead of the Plymouth sources, not in contradiction of the Plymouth sources, but to help connect the dots.

Soooooo, I Googled “17th century English Bread images and these are the resources that appeared:

Cover of Elizabeth David's English Bread and Yeast Cookery - very literal, Google!

Cover of Elizabeth David’s English Bread and Yeast Cookery – very literal, Google!and Excellent choice – great resource!!!!!

 

Street Singer - he's Italian and looks a little 18th century....

Street Singer – he’s Italian and looks a little 18th century….he’s going to be hard to place in 1627 Plimoth….wait, I think he was mislabeled – he might be Parisian….either way, he won’t be in Plimoth Colony anytime soon.

 

 

 

This also appears under the heading 17th century English Breads....this is why resources need some vetting

This also appears under the heading 17th century English Breads….this is why resources need some vetting, sometimes some SERIOUS vetting

I'm not sure what or how this has anything to so with Englsih breads....I rather like the coat, though

I’m not sure why or how or who or what  this has anything to do with English breads….I  like the coat, though. In fact, the entire ensemble is rather fetching.

 

 

 

Simon Luttichuys - who (I think, this is a new one for me) appears to be a painter, born 1620 in London....nice

Simon Luttichuys – who (I think, as this is a new one for me) appears to be a painter, born 1610 in London….nice, now  I need to do more digging about him. The painting is a good resource.

A vopy of a bread recipe - really a formula - from Sir Hugh Plat that was on William Rubel's website - Nice catch

A copy of a bread recipe – really a formula – from Sir Hugh Plat that was on William Rubel’s website – Nice catch, Google!

 

 

 

To make a sallet of all kindes of hearbes

September 19th, 2013 by KM Wall

To make a sallet of all kindes of hearbes
from Thomas Dawson’s The Good Husewifes Jewell, 1597, p 25.

“Take your hearbes and picke them very fine onto faire water, and picke your flowers by themselves, and wash them al cleane, and swing them in a strainer, and when you put them into a dish, mingle them with Cowcumbers or Lemmons payred and sliced, and scrape suger, and put in vineger and Oyle, and throwe the flowers on the toppe of the sallet, and of every sorte of the aforesaide things and garnish the dish about with the foresaid things, and harde Egges boyled and laid about the dish and upon the sallet.”

And now for a modern translation –

A sallet is just another way to say salad.

Hearbes are herbs, which are also of things we now call vegetables – the sorts of things you’d expect to find in a salad. This recipe doesn’t specify any particular herbs, but from other period sources all leafy greens are mentioned: lettuces, spinach, endive, chicory, cabbage, violet leaves, strawberry leaves and borage leaves. Sorrel, salad burnet, parsley, sage, thyme, rosemary and mint leaves could also be added.

Flowers are, well, flowers. Edible flowers include those of calendula (pot marigolds), violets, roses, borage, pinks, and the flowers from sweet herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage. Not sure if it’s edible? Don’t eat it unless you know it’s not toxic. Don’t guess – be safe!
NOTE: If you are gathering herbs and flowers outside of 1627 make sure that they haven’t been treated with herbicides, pesticides or car emissions.

Cowcumbers are cucumbers. Lemmons are lemons. Suger is sugar; vineger is vinegar (wine or cider) and Oyle is oil (olive).

Aforesaide things (which are mentioned several pages back, so no, you didn’t miss it) include raisins, olives, capers, almonds and currents, figs and dates.

harde Egges boyled are hard boiled eggs.

A version of this salad will be on the table for the Bridale for Jane Cooke and Experience Mitchell Saturday September 21, 2013.

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Breads, or, Let Them Eat Cake

September 13th, 2013 by KM Wall

Bread. Seems simple enough. It’s bread. Everyone knows what it is, even when everyone knows something different.

For many now, bread is a wonder….or I should hope wonderful

Wonder Bread

Wonder Bread

A 17th century Englishman would have a hard time finding the bread in that package. There is some current bread that would seem more familiar to him:

220px-Pain_Poîlane-_Paris_15e

Pain Poilane – fancy French bread, now called artisan, in the 17th century called household, or daily, bread. Or just bread.

But according to the cookbooks there are whole categories of items that we no longer consider bread, that were, in no uncertain terms, called bread then.

 

Breads.

49 – To make red Ginger-bread, commonly called Leach-lumbar.
50 – To make white Ginger-bread.
51 – To make Italian Bisket.
52 – To make an excellent Bread called Ginetoes.
53 – To make Prince Bisket.
54 – To make French Macaroons.
55 – To make Naples Bisket.
56 – To make shell bread.
57 – To make Countesse cakes.
58 – To make fine Sugar cake.

1617. John Murrell. A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewoman. Falconwood Press: 1990. table of contents.

Breads.

1 – To make French Mackroones of the best fashion.

2 – To make greene Mackroones.
3 – To make letters and knots in Almonds.
4 – To make Shrewsbery Cakes.
5 – To make English Bisket.
6 – To make Iambles.
7 – To make french Biskets,
8 – To make Bread called Italian crust.
9 – To make puff depine.
10 – To make Cracknels.

1621. John Murrell. A delightful daily exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen. Falconwood Press: 1990. table of contents

Gingerbread??? Interesting addition to the bread world…..the red gingerbread calls for a mold.

Gingerbread mold from the Stuart era

Gingerbread mold from the Stuart era

French Macaroons, the best fashion of  French Mackroones and greene Mackroones…..all breads?

Macaron, French and green

Macaron, French and green – we still make them that way!

At least shell bread is a bread….or is it?

To make shell bread.

Beate a quarter of a pound of double refined Sugar, cearse it with two or three spoonefulls of the finest, the youlkes of three new laid egs, and the white of one, beate all this together in with two or three spoonefulls of sweete creame, a graine of muske, a thimble full of the powder of a dried Lemond, and a little Annise-seede beaten and cearsed, and a little Rose-water, then baste Muskle-shells with sweete butter, as thinne as you can lay it on with a feather, fill your shells with the batter and lay them on a gridiron or a lattise of wickers into the ouen, and bake them, and take them out of the shells, and ise them with Rose-water & Sugar. It is a delicate bread, some call it the Italian Mushle, if you keepe them any long time, then alwaies in wet weather put them in your ouen.

1617. John Murrell. A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewoman. Falconwood Press: 1990.

So this is bread MADE in shells – well, who ever heard of such a thing?

Is this recipe only a Remembrance of Things Past?

Madeleines de Commercy

Madeleines de Commercy – looks like shell bread to me.

 

Turkey in the …..PIE

August 30th, 2013 by KM Wall

Friday August 30 2013 is Free Fun Friday – Thank you, Highland Street Foundation!

It’s a great day for a song…..perhaps a little Turkey in the Straw

Well, I had an old hen and she had a wooden leg,
Just the best old hen that ever laid and egg,
She laid more eggs than any hen on the farm,
But another little drink wouldn’t do her any harm.
CHORUS
Turkey in the hay, in the hay, hay, hay!
Turkey in the straw, in the straw, straw, straw!
Pick ‘em up, shake ‘em up, any way at all,
And hit up a tune called ‘Turkey in the Straw’.

Kelley's Straw bale Turkey - from the UK

Kelley’s Straw bale Turkey – from the UK

Or perhaps a Turkey in the woods

127_0021

Or even a Turkey in a Pie

To bake Turkey, Chicken, Pea-Chicken, Pheasant-Pouts, Heath Pouts, Caponets, or Partridge for to be eaten cold.

Take a turkey-chicken, bone it, and lard it with pretty big lard, a pound and half will serve, then season it with an ounce of pepper, an ounce of nutmegs, and two ounces of salt, lay some butter in the bottom of the pye, then lay on the fowl, and put in it six or eight whole cloves, then put on all the seasoning with good store of butter, close it up, and baste it over with eggs, bake it, and being baked fill it up with clarified butter.

Thus you may bake them for to be eaten hot, giving them but half the seasoning, and liquor it with gravy and juyce of orange.

Bake this pye in fine paste; for more variety you may make a stuffing for it as followeth; mince some beef-suet and a little veal very fine, some sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, two or three raw yolks of eggs, some boil’d skirrets or pieces of artichocks, grapes, or gooseberries, &c.

1674. Robert May. The Accomplist Cook.

NOTES:

  • This is a major contender in the ‘Either/Or” category.
  • Once again, the bird is boned. All those bones make for great soup.
  • Variations include our (old) new friend Skirrets. The grapes should be green, that is green not ripe, not green the color. Like gooseberries in their season, they’re to sharpen things up.

 

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