Tagged ‘pudding’

Puddinggrass

May 24th, 2013 by KM Wall
Hedeoma pulgiodes - false pudding grass

Hedeoma pulgiodes – false pudding grass

Mentha pulegium - Pudding Grass!

Mentha pulegium – Pudding Grass

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Parkinson Paradisus 477 Pennyroyall..vsed to be put into puddings,..and therefore in diuers places they know it by no other name then Pudding-grasse.

Now, dear Mr. Parkinson, how is that this herb that is named for it’s use  in puddings so seldom shows up in pudding recipes?

And frankly – GOOD THING:

Pregnant women and children under the age of 15 should not use this herb.  Do not use oil extract orally as it is highly toxic.  Do not exceed dosage amounts.

With any herb, there is the risk of an allergic reaction. Small children and pregnant women should use additional caution when considering the use of herbal remedies.

Which begs another question – how can the people of the past get away eating and otherwise ingesting things that we now know to be unsafe?

  1. Toxic load is different for different people in different times and in different place. Possibly there was a less toxic form of the herb available or perhaps we’re now exposed to things that make what was once inert, very dangerous OR
  2. When the leading cause of death is ‘suddenly’ appropriate cause and effect relationships aren’t always noted.

So this is a caveat – before we continue in the garden, before we try things merely because someone in the past wrote it down, before we try to be authentic in every detail in recreating old recipes, we must be safe.

Safety First.

Live to tell about it.

All the lovely herbals and books of medicine and even the cookbooks and commonplace books and receipt-books of the past are a great place to start BUT find a good modern herbal reference and use it often before ingesting anything.

There are websites (American Botanical Council or ABC) and books (John Lust The Herb Book is a personal quick and easy reference guide). Check them out before you eat! When in doubt, DON’T.

 

Skull and Crossbones - warning of  poison  AND sign of Cemetary entrance

Skull and Crossbones – warning of poison AND sign of Cemetery entrance

 

“256. A Pennyroyall Puding.

Take 6 Eggs beat them very well and halfe a pint of creame one Nutmeg grated a litle sugar and salt then take a good quantity of parsley penyroyall Marygold flowrs shred very small put them to the creame and Eggs with 4 spoonfulls of sack half a p[ound] of Corance and almost a p[ound] of Beefe suet shred a topeny loafe grated stir all well together then flowr the Bagge or pot tye it up close and it will be boyled in an hours time[.]

for the sauce take a litle rose water and sugar a litle vinegar and butter beat together poure it upon it then serve it in this is esteemed a good puding[.]”

-John Evelyn, Cook. C.Driver, ed. Prospect Books, 1997. p. 143.

For the Pudding, sans pennyroyal….

6 eggs, beaten

1 cup cream

nutmeg, sugar, salt

parsley and caledula flowers (not French marigolds, which taste as nasty as they smell – look them up…)

a little wine (a sack is not a bag, although sack in a bag pudding sounds like the punchline of a 17th century riddle)

suet and grated bread, I mean Bread Crumbs.

This is one pudding that can be boiled in a bag or a basin – basin being a category the I hadn’t noticed in Robert May. hmmmm.

The rosewater, beaten butter and vinegar sauce sounds very very very nice indeed. Not too much rosewater or it will taste like the soaps your Nana put out for company smells.

 

National Vanilla Pudding Day

May 22nd, 2013 by KM Wall

I’m not at all sure how these National (internet) Holidays come about, but WHO KNEW that Vanilla Pudding had a following?

In 1627 Plymouth Colony, it’s the day they hold a Court to divide the first of the stock of the  shareholders venture – the livestock. The resulting document – known as The Division of Cattle – list the people -we’re pretty sure just about ALL the people in 1627 Plymouth – and the cows, calves, heifers, steers and the bull. And the goats, which appear to be written  in another handwriting, possibly a little later.

Kerry cow and her calf

Kerry cow and her calf

Red Devon bull - the bull is the husband of the cow

Red Devon bull – the bull is the husband of the cow

 

So, although there was some milk to make the sort of thing we now call pudding, what did these people think about vanilla?

Not much, if the cookbooks can be believed. By not much, I mean it doesn’t show up, a thing unknown, too unfamiliar.  The Story of Vanilla and it’s introduction to European kitchens is a Spanish story, with Cortez and Aztecs and secret chocolates……and then on to Florence and France……

Florentine Codex 1520 - not English

Florentine Codex 1520 – not English

The word ‘vanilla’ doesn’t come into use in English until the 1750′s, via a botanist, and it  really hits it big in the 19th century. Now it’s hard to believe that it just wasn’t around as a common flavor and a scent.

Which isn’t to say the internet doesn’t say otherwise……

However, it was not until the 17th century that it was recognised as a flavour in its own right. In 1602, Hugh Morgan, apothecary to Queen Elizabeth I of England, suggested that vanilla had sufficient character to stand alone – and later the Queen refused to eat or drink anything that had not been enhanced with vanilla.

FYI – she dies 24 March 1603, so she didn’t love it long…..

Elizabeth I - painted after her death c. 1610. Perhaps she's missing her vanilla...

Elizabeth I – painted after her death c. 1610. Perhaps she’s missing her vanilla…

To boil a Pudding which is uncommonly good.

Take a pond and [a] half of Wheat-flour, three quarter pond of Currents washed clean, a half pond Kidney-suet, cut it very small, 3 Eggs, one and a half Nutmegs, grated fine, a little Salt, mix it with a little sweet Milk so dry that one kneads it like a Bread and tie it in a clean cloth rather close and throw it into a pot with boiling water and let it boil for two hours, then it is done.

-                     The Sensible Cook, Rose ed. p. 79.

 

May Pudding Baggage

May 21st, 2013 by KM Wall
Robert May

Robert May

 

May. Robert May, that is. Robert May The Accomplist Cook author. And what do I mean by Baggage? Why, the things you use to put bag puddings in!

But first,  a word, or two – actually a little poem – in praise of Robert May

Whats wouldst thou view but in one face

all hospitalitie, the race

of those that for the GUSTO stand,

whose table, a whole Ark command

of  Nature plentie, wouldst they see

this sight peruse MAYS booke, ’tis hee.

This is the little ditty in the frontispiece underneath his portrait. Let us all stand for GUSTO!

Back to baggage.

In The Accomplist Cook, which was first published in 1660 , and continued to be revised and printed even after Mr May’s death, there are chapters devoted to different kinds of foods. This is a HUGE and pleasant change from the way many  earlier cookbooks were set-up, where there was a continuation, rather in the way they might come to the table. That is there would be several boiled meats (which might include chicken) and then fricassees (which may or may not include chicken) and then baked meats (which are pies) and again there might be chicken there, and then some sweets and then maybe some roasted things that got forgotten with the other roasted things, and then sauces for the roasted things…..and there are no real category headings.

Mr May has sections, such as

Section 7

The most Excellent Ways of making all Sorts of Puddings.

Way cool.

In this section (because there are other puddings in different places, but only a few).  In looking only at the boiled puddings (not the baked ones, or the ones baked in a pie or the fried ones), puddings are boiled in the following things:

1)    Guts. Formes. Skins (we’ll come back to these, but remember, the oldest forms of puddings are guts)

2)    Bag, Napkin, Cloth

  1. Bag :5
  2. Bag or napkin: 2
  3. Napkin: 11
  4. Napkin or cloth: 1
  5. Cloth: 6
  6. Napkin or paunch: 1
  7. Total: 26 specific mentions.
Flemish 17th century Napkin at the MFA

Flemish 17th century Napkin at the MFA

Table napkin

  • Flemish, early 17th century
Flanders
Dimensions
102 x 70.5 cm (40 3/16 x 27 3/4 in.)
Medium or Technique
Linen damask
Classification
Textiles

This is a table napkin – this is more suitable, although to use something so lovely for a pudding would be a pity – there were plainer napkins.  Notice the size -  40 inches by 28 inches – and it’s made of linen. If a pudding had been made in this napkin, there would be a greasy circle in the middle, reminiscent of the image in the Shroud of Turin.

 

 

 

To make  a Quaking Pudding either boild or baked.

Otherwayes.

Take a penny white loaf , pare off the crust, and slice the crumb, steep in a quart of good thick cream warmed, some beaten nutmeg, six eggs, whereof but two whites, and some salt. Sometimes you may use boild currans, or boild raisins.

If to bake, make it a little stiffer, sometimes add saffron; on flesh days use beef-suet, or marrow; (or neither). for  a boild pudding butter the napkin being first weted in water, and binde it up like a ball, an hour will boil it.

        1671. Robert May. The Accomplist Cook. Third edition. p. 180.

This is a money bag - this is NOT a suitable thing to boil a pudding in

This is a money bag – this is NOT a suitable thing to boil a pudding in, although the shape is good…

Hit the road, Jack

May 19th, 2013 by KM Wall

A little more about bag pudding, pudding bags, and pudding songs and dances .

Bag Pudding (OED)

[f. BAG n.1 + PUDDING.]

1. A pudding boiled in a bag.
1598 in FLORIO. 1600 HEYWOOD 1 Edw. IV, Wks. 1874 I 47 Thou shalt be welcome to beef and bacon, and perhaps a bag-pudding. 1641 W. CARTWRIGHT Ordinary II. i, A solemn son of Bagpudding and Pottage.

But also

2. fig. ? Clown. Obs. (Cf. jackpudding.)
1608 DAY Hum. out of Br. II. i. (1881) 25 Farewell, sweet heart.God a mercy, bagpudding

Jack Pudding is a stock character for theatre, but also a song and a dance.

John Playford in The English Dancing Master  (1651).

 

001smallsmall

 

Jack Pudding as a song and dance:

Jack Pudding facsimile image from Playford's English Dance Master

Jack Pudding facsimile image from Playford’s English Dance Master

 

Jack Pudding as a song: Jack Pudding midi on this website:  English Dancing Master : (http://www.contrib.andrew.cmu.edu/~flip/contrib/dance/playford.html) – it’s been that kind of week

There’s also a lute version on YouTube. I’m not even trying the link thing – trust me, it’s worth the moment to listen.

Back to Jack.

Pudding, that is.

JACK PUDDING. AKA and see “Merry Andrew,” “Step Stately .” English, Country Dance Tune (6/8 time). A Minor. Standard tuning (fiddle). AAB. The melody was first published by John Playford in his English Dancing Master  (1651), and was retained in the long-running series through the 8th edition of 1690, then published by John’s son, Henry. Beginning with the 4th edition of 1670 the alternate title “Merry Andrew” was given for the tune.

Jack Pudding - a German version also known as Hanswurst

Jack Pudding – a German version also known as Hanswurst

 

 

A ‘Jack Pudding’ is a buffoon who performs pudding tricks, such as swallowing a certain number of yards of black-pudding (i.e. blood pudding in a sausage casing). There are many such figures in Northern European tradition: to the Dutch he is Pickel-herringë; the Germans call him Hans Wurst (John Sausage); the Frenchman, Jean Potage; the Italian, Macaro’ni; and the English, Jack Pudding. Later the term appears to have been applied to a jester, harlequin, or a Punch-like clown figure.

JACK Pudding. n.s. [jack and pudding.] A zani; a merry
Andrew.
Every jack pudding will be ridiculing palpable weaknesses
which they ought to cover. L’Estrange.
A buffoon is called by every nation by the name of the dish
they like best: in French jean pottage, and in English jack
pudding. Guardian.
Jack pudding, in his party-colour’d jacket,
Tosses the glove, and jokes at ev’ry packet. Gay.

Dr Johnson’s Dictionary

 And as for pudding roads…..

Pudding Lane, the street in London (Eastcheap) where, in 1666, the Great Fire of London started at the bakery of a certain Thomas Farriner.

and

Pudding bag Lane - just one way in..

Pudding Bag Lane – just one way in…..

Bag of Pudding

May 18th, 2013 by KM Wall

Not just any bag – the pudding bag! Pudding in a bag? Isn’t that messy? Not if you know how it’s done.

Possible the most famous bag pudding is the Christmas Pudding that Mrs Cratchit serves in Dicken’s The Christmas Carol:

“Mrs Cratchit left the room alone — too nervous to bear witnesses — to take the pudding up and bring it in… Hallo! A great deal of steam! The pudding was out of the copper which smells like a washing-day. That was the cloth. A smell like an eating-house and a pastrycook’s next door to each other, with a laundress’s next door to that. That was the pudding. In half a minute Mrs. Cratchit entered — flushed, but smiling proudly — with the pudding, like a speckled cannon-ball, so hard and firm, blazing in half of half-a-quarter of ignited brandy, and bedight with Christmas holly stuck into the top.”

 

 

Christmas Pudding - IN A BAG

Christmas Pudding – IN A BAG

Often the bag is a linen napkin ……. bag is a verb as well as a noun…..

Bag Pudding (OED)

[f. BAGn.1 + PUDDING.]

1. A pudding boiled in a bag.
1598 in FLORIO. 1600HEYWOOD1 Edw. IV, Wks. 1874 I 47 Thou shalt be welcome to beef and bacon, and perhaps a bag-pudding.

1641W. CARTWRIGHTOrdinary II. i, A solemn son of Bagpudding and Pottage.

And if there’s bag pudding, could pudding bag be far behind?

 

Puddingbag (OED)

A bag in which a pudding is boiled. Also transf. and fig. Cf. pudding-poke.

c1597 T. DELONEY Jack of Newberie (1619) iv. sig. G3, The other maide..with the perfume in the pudding-bagge, flapt him about the face.

1626 in NARES (Halliw.), [A piece of Sail-cloth] about half a yard long, of the breadth of a pudding-bag.

And now for what very well be the most comprehensive pudding recipe in any English cookbook ever, no matter the century. I have added the numbered and letter divisions to help you keep track of the possibilities:

Oatmeal Puddings, otherwise of Fish or Flesh Blood.

Take a quart of whole Oatmeal, steep it in warm Milk overnight, and then drain the groats from it, boil them in a quart or three  pints of good Cream; then the Oatmeal being boyled and cold have Tyme, Penny-royal, Parslee, Spinnage, Savory, Endive, Marjoram, Sorrel, Succory, and Strawberry-leaves of each a little quantity, chop them fine and put them to the Oatmeal, with some Fennel-seeds, Pepper, Cloves, Mace, and Salt,

  1. boyl it in a Napkin,

  2. or bake it in a Dish,

  3. Pie,

  4. or Guts:

    1. sometimes of the former Pudding you may leave out some of the herbs, and add these, Pennyroyal, Savory, Leeks, a good bigg Onion, Sage, Ginger, Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt, either for fish or flesh dayes, with Butter or Beef-suet, boyled or baked in Dish, Napkin, or Pie

1661. William Rabisha.  The Whole Body of Cookery Dissected. p. 184.

 

Rag Pudding - a 20th century dish that may hearken back to the 19th century, but is a pudding in a pie

Rag Pudding – a 20th century dish that may hearken back to the 19th century, but is a pudding in a pie

 

You are he that did eat the pudding and the bag.

Proverbs Collected by J. H. Esqr. London 1659

Tart of Ryce

April 1st, 2013 by KM Wall

 

rice

rice

 

1596. T. Dawson. The Good Housewifes Jewell.

To make a Tart of Ryce.

Boyle your Rice, and put in the yolkes of two or three Egges into the Rice, and when it is boyled, put it into a dish, and season it with Suger, Sinamon and Ginger, and butter, and the juyce of two or three Orenges, and set it on the fire againe.

 

1653. W.I. A True Gentlewomans Delight. Falconwood Press: 1991.p. 51.

Still Life of a roast chicken blah blah blah and an ORANGE

Still Life of a roast bird blah blah blah and an ORANGE

To make a Tart of Rice.

Boyle your Rice, and pour it into a Cullender, then season it with Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Ginger, and Pepper, and Sugar, the yolkes of three or four Eggs, then put it into your Tart with the juyce of an Orange, then close it, bake it, and ice it, scrape on Sugar, and serve it.

1654. Jos. Cooper. The Art of Cookery. London. p. 138.

Portuguese baked rice pudding

Portuguese baked rice pudding

How to make a Rice–pudding baked.

Boyle the Rice tender with Milke, and season it with Nutmeg or Mace, Rosewater, Sugar, yolks of Eggs, with half the whites, with grated Bread, and Marrow minced, with Ambergriece (if you please) temper them well together, and bake it in a dish buttered.

Biscuit, butter, cheese and pudding….

March 15th, 2013 by KM Wall

Friday the 16 (of March 1620/21) a fair warm day towards; …….

there presented himself a savage, which caused alarm, he came very boldly came all alone and along the houses straight to the rendezvous, where we intercepted him, not suffering him to go in, as undoubtedly he would, out of his boldness, he saluted us in English, and bade us welcome, for he learned some broken English  amongst the Englishmen that came to fish at Mohegan and knew name most of the captains, commanders, and masters, that usually come,……

he asked some beer, but we gave him strong water,and biscuit, and butter, and cheese, and pudding, and a piece of mallard, all which he like well, and had been acquainted with such amongst the English;….

Mourt’s Relation, p. 480-1, Johnson ed.

Pieter de Hooch - The Empty Glass - no beer, time to get the strong water. This seems to be setting a oh-so-wrong precedent ...

 

 

 

 

Floris Gerritsz. van Schooten Still Life with Glass, Cheese, Butter and Cake. There are little rusks, too, ever so biscuit like.

 

 

Pieter de Hooch - A Woman Preparing Bread and Butter for a Boy - There are surprisingly few images of biscuit (OK, not so surprising) in genre paintings. I think this lump might be what the English sometimes call a 'rock' of butter, but that's only my tentative opinion.

 

spilt porridge detail from Pieter Bruegal's The Topsy Turvy World - a hasty pudding, as it weredetail of spilt porridge from Pieter Brughal’s Topsy Turvy World. A Hasty pudding of sorts

Pieter de Hooch - Woman Plucking a Duck

 

 

National Indian Pudding Day

November 12th, 2012 by KM Wall

It’s that time again… Check out our Indian Pudding recipe in  Yankee Magazine!

There’s also a brand-new video that Comcast Get Local is airing on the Get Local station! We will post it when we get our very own copy. Until then, make sure you check your Get Local Comcast listings to see it!

DUCK

October 4th, 2012 by KM Wall

female mallard

 

male mallard

 

 

 

 

 

 

March 16 Friday 1620/21
“…he [Samoset] asked some beer, but we gave him strong water and biscuit, and butter, and cheese, and pudding, and a piece of mallard, all of which he liked well, and had been acquainted with such amongst the English.”
- Mourts, Applewood ed. p. 5.

There are many kinds of ducks. Mallard is one of the first mentioned in the Plymouth sources, and one that’s pretty common – think of Make Way for Ducklings.

female mallard and ducklings

Ducks Unlimited has a great site to identify -with pictures and sound- many of  the various sorts of ducks that John Josslyn mentions (there’s also hunting information on this site, but you can stay with the identification section) at Duck Identification

“There be four sorts of Ducks, a black Duck, a brown Duck like our wild Ducks, a grey Duck, and a great black and white Duck, these frequent Rivers and Ponds; but of Ducks there be many more sorts, as Hounds, old Wives, Murres, Doies,Shell-Drakes,Shoulers or Shoflers, Widgeons, Simps, Teal, Blew wing’d and green wing’d, Divers or Didapers, or Dipchicks,Fenduck, Duckers or Moorhens, Coots, Pochards, a water-fowl like a Duck, Plungeons, a kind of water –fowl with a long reddish Bill, Puets, Plovers, Smethes, Wilmotes, a kind of a Teal, Godwits, Humilities, Knotes, Red-Shankes, Wobbles, Loones, Gulls, White Gulls, or Sea-Cobbs, Caudemandies, Herons, grey Bitterns, Ox-eyes, Birds called Oxen and Keen, Petterels, Kings fishers, which breed in the spring in holes in the Sea-banks, being unapt to propagate in Summer, by reason of the driness of their bodies, which becomes more moist when their pores are closed by the cold. Most of these Fowls and Birds are eatable.”

- 1674 John Jossyln, Two Voyages to New-England, p. 72. Lindholdt ed.

And, of course, a recipe.

From Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving Recipes and History from Pilgrim to Pumpkin Pie. Kathleen Curtin, Sandra L. Oliver and Plimoth Plantation. Clarkson Potter: New York.2005. pp. 96-7.:

To Boil A wilde Duck.

Trusse and parboyle it, and then halfe roast it, then carve it and save the gravey: take store of Onyons Parsley, sliced Ginger, and Pepper: put the gravie into a Pipkin with washt currins, large Mace, Barberryes, a quart of Claret Wine: let all boyle well together, scumme it cleane, put in Butter and Sugar.

- John Murrell, The Newe Booke of Cookery, 1615

For the Duck:

1 4 to 5 pound duck

2 ½ teaspoons salts

10 black peppercorns

1 medium onion, quartered

Handful of parsley leaves and stalks

3 medium onions, halved vertically, then thinly sliced

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

 

For the Sauce:

2 cups red wine

⅓   cup parsley leaves, minced

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼  cup dried currants or roughly chopped raisins

2-4 blades of whole mace or ½ teaspoon ground

¼ cup cranberries, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon sugar

4 Tablespoons (½ stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

 

Rinse the duck inside and out and rinse any giblets included. Place the duck and giblets (except the liver, which can be reserved for another use) in a pot large enough to accommodate them, along with 2 teaspoons of the salt, the peppercorns, the onion quarters, and parsley leaves and stalks.  Cover with cold water and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat so the broth comes to a very low simmer.  Skim off the forth, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes.

 

Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Arrange the sliced onions in a 13×9-inch roasting pan. Carefully remove the duck from the broth and reserve the broth. Season the duck inside and out with the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and the ground pepper and then place it on top of the onions. Roast the duck for 25 minutes, then place it on a carving board and cover loosely with foil.

 

Meanwhile, make the sauce.  Strain 1 cup of the reserved broth and place in a saucepan along with the onions from the roasting pan, the wine, parsley, ginger, currants, and mace. Boil over medium-high heat until the mixture is reduced by two thirds and attains a syrupy consistency.

 

When the duck has rested for at least 10 minutes, carve it into serving pieces.  Place the meat on a heated serving platter and cover loosely with foil.

 

Add any juices given off during carving to the sauce and stir in the cranberries and sugar. Simmer for another 30 seconds, then remove from the heat.  Swirl in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the sauce is silky.  Serve the duck immediately, accompanied by the sauce.

 

Serves 4-6

 

NOTE: Simmer the leftover defatted duck broth until it is reduced to one quarter; this makes a very useful stock.  Store in the freezer until needed

 

 

Happy National Indian Pudding Day!

November 13th, 2011 by Carolyn

Indian Pudding is a New England regional dish, which we do not see in a written form until 1796, but there is information that the dish was popular in New England long before it appears in cookbooks. This version of Indian Pudding, by Kathleen Wall, contains two staple ingredients found in New England – cornmeal and molasses, which was often baked or boiled for hours. No worries though, this recipe uses a slow cooker instead.

 

 

Indian-Meal Pudding

Ingredients:

3 cups milk

1/2 cup cornmeal

1/2 tsp salt

2+ tbl butter

2 eggs

1/3 cup molasses

1 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp ginger

Optional: 1/2 cup dried cranberries

 

Butter the inside of slow cooker and preheat on high for 15 minutes.

 

 

Whisk milk, cornmeal, and salt in a large heavy bottomed pan and bring to a  boil. (It will rise up somewhat as it heats, so give yourself lots of unless you like  cleaning up scorched milk off your stovetop.) After it comes to a boil, continue  whisking for another 5 minutes.

 

 

Cover and simmer on low for 10 minutes and then take off the burner. Add the butter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Combine the eggs, molasses and spices. Take some of the hot cornmeal mixture and temper the egg mixture, combine both in to the pot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Stir in the cranberries as this point if you would like. You can also top this with  plastic wrap, cool and refrigerate for up to 24 hours, and then continue at this point.) Scrape final mixture into the buttered slow cooker and cook on high for  2-3 hours or on low for 6-8.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The finished pudding will be firm around the edges than the center. Serve warm with ice cream, whipped cream or light cream. Leftovers make a great breakfast.

Enjoy!

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