and a little NPR nutmeg backgrounder….before we go back to Pumpion Pye
To make a Pumpion Pye.
Take a pound of pumpion and slice it, a handful of a time, a little rosemary, () and sweet marjoram stripped off the stalks, chop them small, then take cinamon, nutmeg, pepper, and a few cloves all beaten, also ten eggs, & beat them, then mix and beat them all together, with as much sugar as you think fit, then fry it like a froise, after it is fried let it stand till it is cold, then fill your pye after this manner. Take sliced apples sliced thin roundways, and lay a layer of the froise, and a layer of the apples, with currans betwixt the layers. While your pie is fitted, put in a good deal of sweet butter before you close it. When the pye is baked, take the yolks of eggs, some white wine or verjuyce and make a caudle of this, but not too thick, cut up the lid, put it in, and stir them well together whilst the eggs and pumpion be not perceived, and so serve it up.”
-(1660)Robert May, The Accomplist Cook.
To make this pumpkin pie:
- It’s the same recipe that I posted last week – except that it’s twelve years later and in a cookbook by someone else, and it’s absent a few words…
- It’s going to take a while – give yourself PLENTY of time.
- Take a pound (not a half pound - MORE pumpkin!) of pumpkin (or squash) and peel and slice it. Take some thyme, rosemary, (No Parsley mentioned here, that’s the ()), marjoram, stripped off the stalk and chopped fine.
- Add some cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper and a few cloves (not necessarily 6) cloves. They should all be powdered.
- Beat 10 eggs. Add the spice and some sugar to the eggs.
- Add some butter to a frying pan. Add the slice pumpkin and the herbs.
- When the pumpkin start to get soft, add the eggs with the spice. Add a little sugar, turn the eggs around the pumpkin and let it set up. Froize means fried, rather like frittata means fried…when this is cooked through you could need to let it cool. I’m tempted to serve it up with some nice crusty bread and a glass of wine and call it a day.
- But wait -there’s MORE.
- Make a pastry case – Use a deep dish pie plate, make a bottom crust and then add the cooled froize as the first layer.
- Put in some dried currents (If you only have raisins of the sun, they will do) in a layer over the froize.
- Add a layer of thin sliced apples (cores removed).
- Add butter.
- Put the lid on the pie and bake.
- Make the caudle – mix 6 egg yolks with wine or verjuice and cook them together until they’re thick (but no too thick).
- When you take the pie out of the oven, remove the lid, add the caudle and stir it all around until the eggs and pumpkin are blended in.
- So serve it up.