Tagged ‘grapes’

Turkey in the …..PIE

August 30th, 2013 by KM Wall

Friday August 30 2013 is Free Fun Friday – Thank you, Highland Street Foundation!

It’s a great day for a song…..perhaps a little Turkey in the Straw

Well, I had an old hen and she had a wooden leg,
Just the best old hen that ever laid and egg,
She laid more eggs than any hen on the farm,
But another little drink wouldn’t do her any harm.
Turkey in the hay, in the hay, hay, hay!
Turkey in the straw, in the straw, straw, straw!
Pick ‘em up, shake ‘em up, any way at all,
And hit up a tune called ‘Turkey in the Straw’.

Kelley's Straw bale Turkey - from the UK

Kelley’s Straw bale Turkey – from the UK

Or perhaps a Turkey in the woods


Or even a Turkey in a Pie

To bake Turkey, Chicken, Pea-Chicken, Pheasant-Pouts, Heath Pouts, Caponets, or Partridge for to be eaten cold.

Take a turkey-chicken, bone it, and lard it with pretty big lard, a pound and half will serve, then season it with an ounce of pepper, an ounce of nutmegs, and two ounces of salt, lay some butter in the bottom of the pye, then lay on the fowl, and put in it six or eight whole cloves, then put on all the seasoning with good store of butter, close it up, and baste it over with eggs, bake it, and being baked fill it up with clarified butter.

Thus you may bake them for to be eaten hot, giving them but half the seasoning, and liquor it with gravy and juyce of orange.

Bake this pye in fine paste; for more variety you may make a stuffing for it as followeth; mince some beef-suet and a little veal very fine, some sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, two or three raw yolks of eggs, some boil’d skirrets or pieces of artichocks, grapes, or gooseberries, &c.

1674. Robert May. The Accomplist Cook.


  • This is a major contender in the ‘Either/Or” category.
  • Once again, the bird is boned. All those bones make for great soup.
  • Variations include our (old) new friend Skirrets. The grapes should be green, that is green not ripe, not green the color. Like gooseberries in their season, they’re to sharpen things up.


From sea to shore, piewise

August 9th, 2013 by KM Wall

Oh, the poor lobster.

They’re easy – if you live by the shore.  And that doesn’t make them special.

And they’re plentiful – when the tide goes out. And that makes them easy fodder for pigs.

And they’re rare – away from the shore. And people don’t miss what they don’t know.

Until people who live on the coast move inland ……  and faster modes of transportation make it easier to bring lobsters to people who knew lobsters and then what was once hard to come by, becomes easily available, and therefore easier to scorn. And so a whispering campaign against the humble lobster begins.

Do 17th century Englishmen disdain lobster? If they do, they’re keeping it to themselves. In general, shell fish are lower on the hierarchy of Fish simply because they are neither properly from the sea nor land. It’s because lobsters are  from the margin that they’re somewhat marginal to our 17th century Englishmen.

lobster foscle

Lobster and mussels

It’s hard to tell what the poor are eating by looking at cookbooks, because cookbooks are for those who can afford books – and often cooks. It’s not until the second half of the 17th century that any English cookbook has a large selection of lobster recipes.

To bake Lobsters to be eaten hot.

Being boil’d and cold, take the meat out of the shells, and season it lightly with nutmeg, pepper, salt, cinamon, and ginger; then lay it in a pye made according to the following form, and lay on it some dates in halves, large mace, slic’t lemons, barberries, yolks of hard eggs and butter, close it up and bake it, and being baked liquor it with white-wine, butter, and sugar, and ice it. On flesh days put marrow to it.



Take the meat out of the shells being boil’d and cold, and lard it with a salt eel or salt salmon, seasoning it with beaten nutmeg, pepper, and salt; then make the pye, put some butter in the bottom, and lay on it some slices of a fresh eel, and on that a layer of lobsters, put to it a few whole cloves, and thus make two or three layers, last of all slices of fresh eel, some whole cloves and butter, close up the pye, and being baked, fill it up with clarified butter.

If you bake it these ways to eat hot, season it lightly, and put in some large mace; liquor it with claret wine, beaten butter, and slices of orange.

Take four lobsters being boil’d, and some good fat conger raw, cut some of it into square pieces as broad as your hand, then take the meat of the lobsters, and slice the tails in two halves or two pieces long wayes, as also the claws, season both with pepper, nutmeg and salt then make the pie, put butter in the bottom, lay on the slices, of conger, and then a layer of lobsters; thus do three or four times till the pie be full, then lay on a few whole cloves, and some butter; close it up and bake it, being baked liquor it with butter and white-wine, or only clarified butter. Make your pyes according to these forms


If to eat hot season it lightly, and being baked liquor it with butter, white-wine, slic’t lemon, gooseberries, grapes, or barberries.


Accomplisht Cook,





Wherein the whole ART is revealed in a
more easie and perfect Method, than hath
been publisht in any language.

Expert and ready Ways for the Dressing of all Sorts of FLESH, FOWL, and FISH, with variety of SAUCES proper for each of them; and how to raise all manner of Pastes; the best Directions for all sorts of Kickshaws, also the Terms of CARVING and SEWING.

An exact account of all Dishes for all Seasons of the Year, with other A-la-mode Curiosities.

The Fifth Edition, with large Additions throughout the whole work: besides two hundred Figures of several Forms for all manner of bak’d Meats, (either Flesh, or Fish) as, Pyes Tarts, Custards; Cheesecakes, and Florentines, placed in Tables, and directed to the Pages they appertain to.

Why the LONG and full title of Robert May’s The Accomplist Cook? Because there’s an online version, now listed in the blogroll. Sweeete.


B52's - Rock Lobster - not the least bit marginal

B52′s – Rock Lobster – not the least bit marginal

B 52′s made Lobster Rock – and it’s not until the early 20th century that Maine made a Lobster Roll.

Lobster Roll at the Lobster Claw, Bar Harbor Maine

Lobster Roll at the Lobster Claw, Bar Harbor Maine


Two Turtledoves

December 27th, 2012 by KM Wall

Two European Turtle Doves (Streptopelia turtur)


To bake Pigeons wild or tame, Stock-Doves, Turtle-Doves, Quails, Rails, & c. to be eaten cold.

Take six pigeons, pull, truss, and draw them, wash and wipe them dry, and season them with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, the quantity of two ounces of the foresaid spices, and as much of the one as the other, then lay some butter in the bottom of the pye, lay on the pigeons, and put all the seasonings on them in the pye, put butter to it, close it up and bake it, being baked and cold, fill it up with clarified butter.

Make the paste of a pottle of fine flour, and a quarter of a pound of butter boil’d in fair water made up quick and stiff.

If you will bake them to be eaten hot, leave out half the seasoning: Bake them in dish, pie, or patty-pan, and make cold paste of a pottle of flour, six yolks of raw eggs, and a pound of butter, work into flour dry, and being well wrought into it, make it up stiff with a little fair water.

Being bakes to be eaten hot, put into yolks of hard eggs, sweet breads, lamb-stones, sparagus, or bottoms of artichokes, chestnuts, grapes or gooseberries.

Sometimes for variety make a lear of butter, verjuyce, sugar, some sweet marjoram chopped and boil’d up in the liquor, put them in the pye when you serve it up, and  dissolve the yolk of an egg into it: then cut up the pye or dish, and put some slic’t lemon, shake it well together, and serve it up hot.

In this mode or fashion you bake larks, black-birds, thrushes, veldifers, sparrows or wheat-ears.

- 1678. Robert May. The Accomplist Cook. Falconwood Press ed. p. 124.

Eat Like A Pilgrim: Bill of Fare

April 17th, 2012 by KM Wall

and a few other notes…….

There are no forks, just spoons and knives and fingers – be sure to wash you hands before the start of the meal!

Napkins are a good size and belong in your lap, or for the men if they so choose, over the left shoulder.

The table has a tablecloth, because eating off of bare wood is for hogs at a trough.

Salt and bread are placed on first – they are the least hospitality. They will also be the last things removed.
This bread is known as cheate bread. It is made from wheat that hasn’t been sifted; that is, whole wheat flour. In the 17th century there is also white bread (sifted flour) and brown bread (sometimes dried pease or dried beans were ground and added to the unsifted flour). Cheate is the common household bread. In New England cornmeal is added as well as wheat.

A platter of grapes, prunes (dried plums) and cheese are set to daintily eat while conversing.

A sallet of cucumbers is a salad made from cucumbers, vinegar, oil, salt, pepper and a little sugar. Salads are more like condiments then side dishes in the 17th century; they add flavor and variety to the meal.

The commonest drink in early New England is water. The Wampanoag name for Plymouth is Patuxet, meaning place of many springs.

Turkey is served with a sauce of onions and breadcrumbs. (Sauce for Turkie)

Squash is served stewed (Stewed Pompion).

Indian Pudding is called that because it uses Indian, or corn meal. (Indian Pudding)


Sauce madam (one version)

March 15th, 2012 by KM Wall

Sawce madame. Take sawge, persoly, ysope, saveray, Onyons gode, peres, garlek, I say, And grapes. go fille þy gose þenne And sew þy hole, no grece oute renne. Lay hur to fyre and rost hyr browne, And kepe þo grece þat falles doune. Take galingale and þo grece þat renne, Do hit in posnet, as I þe kenne. Whenne þo gose is rostyd, take hir away, Smyte hir in pesys, I þe pray. Þat is within, þou schalle take oute, Kest in þy posnet with outene doute. 3if hit is thyke do þerto wyne, And powder of galingale þat is fyne, And powder dowce and salt also. Boyle alle togeder er þou fyr go, In a dysshe þy gose þou close Þe sawce abofe, as I suppose.

-  Source [Liber cure cocorum, T. Gloning (ed.)]
Sauce Madame
Take sage, parsley, hyssop, savory, onions good, pears, garlic, I say, And grapes. Go fill thy goose then And sew thy hole, no grease out run. Lay her to fire and roast her brown, And keep her grease that falls down. Take galingale, and thou grease that ran, Do it in a posnet, as I thee ken. When thou goose is roasted, take her away, Smite her in pieces, I thee pray. That is within, thou shall take out. Cast in thy posnet with outene doute , if it is thick do thereto wine, And powder of galingale that is fine, And powder douce and salt also. Boil all together ere thou fire go, In a dish thy goose thou close the sauce above, as I suppose.

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