Tagged ‘currants’

Puddinggrass

May 24th, 2013 by KM Wall
Hedeoma pulgiodes - false pudding grass

Hedeoma pulgiodes – false pudding grass

Mentha pulegium - Pudding Grass!

Mentha pulegium – Pudding Grass

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Parkinson Paradisus 477 Pennyroyall..vsed to be put into puddings,..and therefore in diuers places they know it by no other name then Pudding-grasse.

Now, dear Mr. Parkinson, how is that this herb that is named for it’s use  in puddings so seldom shows up in pudding recipes?

And frankly – GOOD THING:

Pregnant women and children under the age of 15 should not use this herb.  Do not use oil extract orally as it is highly toxic.  Do not exceed dosage amounts.

With any herb, there is the risk of an allergic reaction. Small children and pregnant women should use additional caution when considering the use of herbal remedies.

Which begs another question – how can the people of the past get away eating and otherwise ingesting things that we now know to be unsafe?

  1. Toxic load is different for different people in different times and in different place. Possibly there was a less toxic form of the herb available or perhaps we’re now exposed to things that make what was once inert, very dangerous OR
  2. When the leading cause of death is ‘suddenly’ appropriate cause and effect relationships aren’t always noted.

So this is a caveat – before we continue in the garden, before we try things merely because someone in the past wrote it down, before we try to be authentic in every detail in recreating old recipes, we must be safe.

Safety First.

Live to tell about it.

All the lovely herbals and books of medicine and even the cookbooks and commonplace books and receipt-books of the past are a great place to start BUT find a good modern herbal reference and use it often before ingesting anything.

There are websites (American Botanical Council or ABC) and books (John Lust The Herb Book is a personal quick and easy reference guide). Check them out before you eat! When in doubt, DON’T.

 

Skull and Crossbones - warning of  poison  AND sign of Cemetary entrance

Skull and Crossbones – warning of poison AND sign of Cemetery entrance

 

“256. A Pennyroyall Puding.

Take 6 Eggs beat them very well and halfe a pint of creame one Nutmeg grated a litle sugar and salt then take a good quantity of parsley penyroyall Marygold flowrs shred very small put them to the creame and Eggs with 4 spoonfulls of sack half a p[ound] of Corance and almost a p[ound] of Beefe suet shred a topeny loafe grated stir all well together then flowr the Bagge or pot tye it up close and it will be boyled in an hours time[.]

for the sauce take a litle rose water and sugar a litle vinegar and butter beat together poure it upon it then serve it in this is esteemed a good puding[.]”

-John Evelyn, Cook. C.Driver, ed. Prospect Books, 1997. p. 143.

For the Pudding, sans pennyroyal….

6 eggs, beaten

1 cup cream

nutmeg, sugar, salt

parsley and caledula flowers (not French marigolds, which taste as nasty as they smell – look them up…)

a little wine (a sack is not a bag, although sack in a bag pudding sounds like the punchline of a 17th century riddle)

suet and grated bread, I mean Bread Crumbs.

This is one pudding that can be boiled in a bag or a basin – basin being a category the I hadn’t noticed in Robert May. hmmmm.

The rosewater, beaten butter and vinegar sauce sounds very very very nice indeed. Not too much rosewater or it will taste like the soaps your Nana put out for company smells.

 

May Pudding Baggage

May 21st, 2013 by KM Wall
Robert May

Robert May

 

May. Robert May, that is. Robert May The Accomplist Cook author. And what do I mean by Baggage? Why, the things you use to put bag puddings in!

But first,  a word, or two – actually a little poem – in praise of Robert May

Whats wouldst thou view but in one face

all hospitalitie, the race

of those that for the GUSTO stand,

whose table, a whole Ark command

of  Nature plentie, wouldst they see

this sight peruse MAYS booke, ’tis hee.

This is the little ditty in the frontispiece underneath his portrait. Let us all stand for GUSTO!

Back to baggage.

In The Accomplist Cook, which was first published in 1660 , and continued to be revised and printed even after Mr May’s death, there are chapters devoted to different kinds of foods. This is a HUGE and pleasant change from the way many  earlier cookbooks were set-up, where there was a continuation, rather in the way they might come to the table. That is there would be several boiled meats (which might include chicken) and then fricassees (which may or may not include chicken) and then baked meats (which are pies) and again there might be chicken there, and then some sweets and then maybe some roasted things that got forgotten with the other roasted things, and then sauces for the roasted things…..and there are no real category headings.

Mr May has sections, such as

Section 7

The most Excellent Ways of making all Sorts of Puddings.

Way cool.

In this section (because there are other puddings in different places, but only a few).  In looking only at the boiled puddings (not the baked ones, or the ones baked in a pie or the fried ones), puddings are boiled in the following things:

1)    Guts. Formes. Skins (we’ll come back to these, but remember, the oldest forms of puddings are guts)

2)    Bag, Napkin, Cloth

  1. Bag :5
  2. Bag or napkin: 2
  3. Napkin: 11
  4. Napkin or cloth: 1
  5. Cloth: 6
  6. Napkin or paunch: 1
  7. Total: 26 specific mentions.
Flemish 17th century Napkin at the MFA

Flemish 17th century Napkin at the MFA

Table napkin

  • Flemish, early 17th century
Flanders
Dimensions
102 x 70.5 cm (40 3/16 x 27 3/4 in.)
Medium or Technique
Linen damask
Classification
Textiles

This is a table napkin – this is more suitable, although to use something so lovely for a pudding would be a pity – there were plainer napkins.  Notice the size -  40 inches by 28 inches – and it’s made of linen. If a pudding had been made in this napkin, there would be a greasy circle in the middle, reminiscent of the image in the Shroud of Turin.

 

 

 

To make  a Quaking Pudding either boild or baked.

Otherwayes.

Take a penny white loaf , pare off the crust, and slice the crumb, steep in a quart of good thick cream warmed, some beaten nutmeg, six eggs, whereof but two whites, and some salt. Sometimes you may use boild currans, or boild raisins.

If to bake, make it a little stiffer, sometimes add saffron; on flesh days use beef-suet, or marrow; (or neither). for  a boild pudding butter the napkin being first weted in water, and binde it up like a ball, an hour will boil it.

        1671. Robert May. The Accomplist Cook. Third edition. p. 180.

This is a money bag - this is NOT a suitable thing to boil a pudding in

This is a money bag – this is NOT a suitable thing to boil a pudding in, although the shape is good…

Pies for the month of May

May 13th, 2013 by KM Wall

If the 1627  Winslows had wanted to celebrate their six years of marriage with six pies, they had some spring-time options, based on what is available in May and in New England.

Pie the first:

An herb tart

Take sorrel, spinach, parsley, and boil them in water till they be very soft as pap; then take them up, press the water clean from them, then take good store of eggs boiled very hard, and, chopping them with the herbs exceedingly small, then put in good store of currants, sugar, cinnamon, and stir all well together; then put them into a deep tart coffin with a good store of sweet butter, and cover it, and bake it like a pippin tart*, and adorn the lid after the baking in that manner also, and so serve it up.

-         Markham, Best ed. p. 109

 

Pippin Tart design from Robert May

Pippin Tart design from Robert May

To make Sorrell Cream

May 2nd, 2013 by KM Wall

It’s too early for raspberries here in Plymouth, but there are some warm days, and sorrel can be as refreshing as fresh fruit…..

Raspberry in bloom -they're not quite ready yet, but sorrel is!

Raspberry in bloom -they’re not quite ready yet, but sorrel is!

TO MAKE RASBERRY CREAM

Take a pinte of cream & boyle it with 3 whites of eggs beaten well with warme cream, put in a blade or 2 of mace & some leamon pill, & when it is pritty well boyled take it of & season it with sugar & put in some Jiuce of rasberries. stir it well together & when it is cold serve it up. thus you may make curranberrie, sorrell, or leamon cream.

-          MW Booke of Cookery, Hess ed. C125. p.142.

Rumex acetosa - garden sorrel

Rumex acetosa – garden sorrel

Rice puddings

April 24th, 2013 by KM Wall
Rice

Rice

 

Spring is a season where things change fast. One minute it’s all about dragons, the next there’s an abundance of milk and eggs to use. Rice was a common commodity to take to sea, but also a special treat when made into puddings.

Pudding funnel (these are white puddings or boudin blanc) from Ivan Day's site

Pudding funnel (these are white puddings or boudin blanc) from Ivan Day’s Historic Food site

 

Rice puddings

Take half a pound of Rice, and steepe it inn new milke a whole night and in the morning drain it, and let the Milke drop away; then take a quart of the best sweetest and thickest Creame, and put the Rice into it, and boyle it a little; then set it to cool an hower or two, & after put in the Yelkes of half a dozzen Egges, a little Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Currants, Dates, Sugar and Salt; and having mixt them well together, so serve it into the farms[1], and boil them as before shewed, and serve them after a day old.

1631.  Gervase Markham, Best ed. English Housewife. p. 72.



[1] ‘farms’ or forms a/k/a guts or puddings

 

To make Rice Puddings.

Boyle halfe a pound of Rice with three pintes of Milke, a little beaten Mace, boyle it untill your Rice be drie, but never stirre it, then you must stirre it continually or else it will burne: powre your Rice in a Collinder, or else into a strainer, that the moisture may runne cleane from it: then put to it sixe Egges, and put away the whites of three, halfe a pound of Sugar, a quarter of a pinte of Rose-water, a pound of Currans, a pound of Beefe suet shred small, season it with Nutmeg, Sinamon, and a little Salt, stirre all this together with a spoone thinne, drie the smallest guts of a Hog in a faire cloth being watered and scoured fir for the Puddings, and fill them three quarters full, and tie both ends together, let them boyle softly a quarter of an houre or scarce so much, and let the water boyle before you put them in, and doe as the other Puddings last spoken of.

Note: the previous puddings were Liverie Pudding and the notes are:

…cut the small guts of a Hogge about a foot long, fill them three quarters full of the aforesaid stuffe, tie both ends together and boyle them in a kettle of faire water, with a pewter Dish under them, with the bottome upward, and it will keepe your Puddings from breaking:…(p. 26)

1638. John Murrell. The Second Booke of Cookerie. Stuart Press: 1993.p. 27.

 

A Ryce Pudding.

Steep it in faire water all night: then boyle it in new Milke, and draine out the Milke, through a Cullinder[1]: mince beefe Suit [2]handsomely, but not too small, and put it into the Rice, and parboyled Currins[3], yolkes of new layd Egges, Nutmeg, sinamon, Sugar, and Barberryes[4]: mingle all together: wash your scoured guttes, and stuffe them with the aforesaid pulp: parboyle them, and let them coole.

1615. John Murrell. A New Booke of Cookerie. Falconwood Press. 1989. p. 18.

 

[1] colander

[2] that’s suet – a beef/sheep fat

[3] currents

[4] a small, red, sour berry much like a cranberry…..

And with those they eat……(herring, that is)

April 17th, 2013 by KM Wall

And with those they eat ….,

Herring monger

Herring monger

herring in not quite a hoghead

 

To stew Herringes

“Take Ale, and put therin a few Onions small cut, & a spoonful of Mustard, great Mustard, great Raisins and saffron, & thick it with grated bread: if you wil have puddings in them, take the soft rowes of the Herrrings, & stamp them with a little thick Almond milke, and put thereto some dates or figs minced, cloves, Mace, Sugar, saffron, and salt, and some Corrans, and grated bread.”

- Good Huswives Handmaide for the Kitchen. Peachey transcript ed.  London, 1594. p.44.

Chewet

February 25th, 2013 by KM Wall

My little pie maker - this is not an endorsement - doesn't it look like a muffin tin????

A chewet pie.
Take the brawns and the wings of capons and chickens after they have been roasted, and pull away the skin; then shred them with fine mutton suet very small; then season it with cloves, mace, cinnamon, sugar, and salt;then put to raisins of the sun and currants, and sliced dates, and orange peels, and, being well mixed together, put it into small coffins made for that purpose, and strew on top of them good store of caraway comfits: then cover them, and bake them with a gentle heat, and these chewets you may make also of roasted veal, seasoned as before shown and all parts of the loin is the best.
-Markham,G. The English Housewife, Best ed, p. 103

  1. Roasted chicken or capon – there’s no reason to avoid a store rotisserie bird  – pull off the skin and shred the meat. Or use roasted veal., should you have some of that around.
  2. Mutton suet is pretty hard to find these days, and we’d probably prefer less fat – a little butter would do, but out chicken are also pretty fat…
  3. Season the chicken with spices – it should smell good and taste great, and a little cloves goes a long, long, way
  4. Raisins of the sun, little tiny currents, (the Plymouth County girl in me wants to say ‘Crasin’. Just saying.)Sliced dates or chopped if you got ‘em
  5. Orange peels  – you might want to grate this.
  6. Mix it all together. Smell and taste.
  7. Make pastry for the coffins (it’s not hard, and these are little pies). If you don’t trust your pastry skills, use one of the several little pie makers on the market or the Texas size muffin tins to act as your forms.
  8. Roll, fill.
  9. Add caraway comfits, which are caraway seeds coated with sugar, or just use regular old caraway seeds. I know at least one of you is thinking, “Caraway in German is Kummel, in Yiddish…..” Yes, you are.
  10. Put on the lids, crimp.
  11. Bake – 350°ish  until the pastry is nice and done (the chicken is already cooked, no danger of raw chicken)
  12. Chewet. Chewet, Good.

another sort of little pie maker...also not an endorsement

DUCK

October 4th, 2012 by KM Wall

female mallard

 

male mallard

 

 

 

 

 

 

March 16 Friday 1620/21
“…he [Samoset] asked some beer, but we gave him strong water and biscuit, and butter, and cheese, and pudding, and a piece of mallard, all of which he liked well, and had been acquainted with such amongst the English.”
- Mourts, Applewood ed. p. 5.

There are many kinds of ducks. Mallard is one of the first mentioned in the Plymouth sources, and one that’s pretty common – think of Make Way for Ducklings.

female mallard and ducklings

Ducks Unlimited has a great site to identify -with pictures and sound- many of  the various sorts of ducks that John Josslyn mentions (there’s also hunting information on this site, but you can stay with the identification section) at Duck Identification

“There be four sorts of Ducks, a black Duck, a brown Duck like our wild Ducks, a grey Duck, and a great black and white Duck, these frequent Rivers and Ponds; but of Ducks there be many more sorts, as Hounds, old Wives, Murres, Doies,Shell-Drakes,Shoulers or Shoflers, Widgeons, Simps, Teal, Blew wing’d and green wing’d, Divers or Didapers, or Dipchicks,Fenduck, Duckers or Moorhens, Coots, Pochards, a water-fowl like a Duck, Plungeons, a kind of water –fowl with a long reddish Bill, Puets, Plovers, Smethes, Wilmotes, a kind of a Teal, Godwits, Humilities, Knotes, Red-Shankes, Wobbles, Loones, Gulls, White Gulls, or Sea-Cobbs, Caudemandies, Herons, grey Bitterns, Ox-eyes, Birds called Oxen and Keen, Petterels, Kings fishers, which breed in the spring in holes in the Sea-banks, being unapt to propagate in Summer, by reason of the driness of their bodies, which becomes more moist when their pores are closed by the cold. Most of these Fowls and Birds are eatable.”

- 1674 John Jossyln, Two Voyages to New-England, p. 72. Lindholdt ed.

And, of course, a recipe.

From Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving Recipes and History from Pilgrim to Pumpkin Pie. Kathleen Curtin, Sandra L. Oliver and Plimoth Plantation. Clarkson Potter: New York.2005. pp. 96-7.:

To Boil A wilde Duck.

Trusse and parboyle it, and then halfe roast it, then carve it and save the gravey: take store of Onyons Parsley, sliced Ginger, and Pepper: put the gravie into a Pipkin with washt currins, large Mace, Barberryes, a quart of Claret Wine: let all boyle well together, scumme it cleane, put in Butter and Sugar.

- John Murrell, The Newe Booke of Cookery, 1615

For the Duck:

1 4 to 5 pound duck

2 ½ teaspoons salts

10 black peppercorns

1 medium onion, quartered

Handful of parsley leaves and stalks

3 medium onions, halved vertically, then thinly sliced

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

 

For the Sauce:

2 cups red wine

⅓   cup parsley leaves, minced

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼  cup dried currants or roughly chopped raisins

2-4 blades of whole mace or ½ teaspoon ground

¼ cup cranberries, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon sugar

4 Tablespoons (½ stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

 

Rinse the duck inside and out and rinse any giblets included. Place the duck and giblets (except the liver, which can be reserved for another use) in a pot large enough to accommodate them, along with 2 teaspoons of the salt, the peppercorns, the onion quarters, and parsley leaves and stalks.  Cover with cold water and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat so the broth comes to a very low simmer.  Skim off the forth, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes.

 

Preheat the oven to 400ºF. Arrange the sliced onions in a 13×9-inch roasting pan. Carefully remove the duck from the broth and reserve the broth. Season the duck inside and out with the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and the ground pepper and then place it on top of the onions. Roast the duck for 25 minutes, then place it on a carving board and cover loosely with foil.

 

Meanwhile, make the sauce.  Strain 1 cup of the reserved broth and place in a saucepan along with the onions from the roasting pan, the wine, parsley, ginger, currants, and mace. Boil over medium-high heat until the mixture is reduced by two thirds and attains a syrupy consistency.

 

When the duck has rested for at least 10 minutes, carve it into serving pieces.  Place the meat on a heated serving platter and cover loosely with foil.

 

Add any juices given off during carving to the sauce and stir in the cranberries and sugar. Simmer for another 30 seconds, then remove from the heat.  Swirl in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the sauce is silky.  Serve the duck immediately, accompanied by the sauce.

 

Serves 4-6

 

NOTE: Simmer the leftover defatted duck broth until it is reduced to one quarter; this makes a very useful stock.  Store in the freezer until needed

 

 

Bride-cake

July 11th, 2012 by KM Wall

Joris Hoefnagel, Wedding Fete at Bermondsey c. 1569

THE BRIDE-CAKE

This day, my Julia, thou must make
For Mistress Bride the wedding-cake:
Knead but the dough, and it will be
To paste of almonds turn’d by thee;
Or kiss it thou but once or twice,
And for the bride-cake there’ll be spice.

Robert Herrick

The 1627 Village will be the site of a wedding on Saturday July 14th. It’s a 1627 wedding, or more properly, a bride-ale. And what’s a bride-ale without cake?

Bride-cake is simply the cake served at a wedding feast. There is no particular kind of cake that is served at weddings ONLY. The same sorts of cakes that are served at weddings are also served at christenings, wakes, and Christmas.   Most cakes, that is grand cakes (which are different from little cakes or what we now call cookies) are made from fine wheat flour, yeast, sugar, butter, eggs or cream or both, maybe some ground almonds, spices (which might include saffron, as well as the more usual cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, mace) and most often dried fruit – currants, raisins, even dates. Flavorings could include rosewater, musk, ambergris and Sack.

In the cookbooks these cakes are often called Spice Cakes. Spice cakes are also the basis for Oxfordshire Cakes and Banbury Cakes. Banbury is a town in Oxfordshire.

“A mock ‘country bride-ale’ held in 1575 at Kenilworth Castle for the amusement of Elizabeth I included a procession of maidens carrying “three speciall spicecakes of a bushel of wheat”

In 1655, spice cakes were still being used at bride-ales. This is also the first cake recipe that is specifically baked for a wedding:

The Countess of Rutlands Receipt of making the rare Banbury Cake, which was so much praised at her Daughters (the Right Honourable the Lady Chadworths) Wedding.

- 1656. W.M. The Compleat Cook. London;  pp. 109-11.

These are all different from modern (20th and 21st century) Banbury Cakes, which are masses of spiced and sugared raisins and currants in puff pastry. These Elizabethan cakes cakes made  with masses of raisins and currants and spice in a plain piece of their own base dough. This gives the finished cake a smooth appearance, as if it were plain bread or perhaps a pie. The cakes in the Hoefnagel painting “A Wedding Feast at Bermondsey” are also very large, the size as if they had  been made with a peck of flour, and could very well be Banbury Cakes.

But sometimes the bride-cakes were smaller, and stacked on each other.

John Aubrey (1629-1697), who was born in Wiltshire and educated at Oxford, recalls,

“ When I was a little boy (back before the Civill warres) I have seen (according to the custom then) the Bride and Bride-groome kiss over the Bride-cakes at the table: it was about the latter-end of dinner: and the cakes were layd upon one another, like the picture of the Sew-bread in the old Bibles: The Bride-groome wayted [on the guest] all dinner time”

The Sew-bread is mentioned in Exodus. In the Geneva edition of the Bible, the favorite edition of the Plymouth settlers, there is an illustration of the sew-bread, and there are six flattish loaves stacked up on each of two plates.

For  our 1627 bride-ale on Saturday I made the smaller, sew-breadish version of cakes – they’ll be stacked on each other at the table on Saturday (did I mention the festivities are on SATURDAY?)

Here’s the period recipe that they’re based on:

To make a very good great Oxfordshire Cake.

Take a peck of flour by weight, and dry it a little, and a pound and a half of sugar, and ounce of Cinamon, half an ounce of Nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of Mace & Cloves, a good spoonful of Salt, beat your Salt and Spice very fine, and searce it and mix it with your flour and sugar; then take three pound of butter and work it in the flour, it will take three hours working ; then take a quart of Ale-yeast, two quarts of Cream, half a pint of Sack, six grains of Amebergreece dissolved into it, half a pint of Rosewater, sixteen Eggs, eight of the whites, mix these with the flowr, and knead them well together, then let it lie warm by your fire till your Oven be hot, which must be a little hotter then for manchet, when you make it ready for your oven, put to your Cake six pound of currans, two pound of Raisins of the Sun stoned and minced, so make up your cake, and set it in your Oven stopt close; it will take three hours baking ; when baked, take it out and frost it over with the white of an Egg, and Rosewater well beat together, and strew fine sugar upon it, and then set it again into the oven, that it may ice.

-         1656. W.M. The Compleat Cook. London. pp. 13-4.

 

To compound an excellent sallat

April 17th, 2012 by KM Wall

To compound an excellent sallat, and which indeed is usual at great feasts, and upon princes’ tables: take good quantity of blanched almonds, and with your shredding knife cut them grossly; then take as many raisins of the sun, clean washed and the stones picked out, as many figs shred like the almonds, as many capers, twice so many olives, and as many currants as all the rest, clean washed, a good handful of the small tender leaves of red sage and spinach; mix all these well together with good store of sugar, and lay them in the bottom of a great dish; then put unto them vinegar and oil, and scrape more sugar over all; then take oranges and lemons, paring away the outward peels, cut them into thin slices, then with those slices cover the sallet all over; then over those red leaves lay another course of old olives, and the slices of well pickled cucumbers. Together with the very inward heart of your cabbage lettuce cut into slices; then adorn the sides of the dish with more slices of lemons and oranges, and so serve it up.

Gervase Markham. Country Contentments or the English Huswife. 1615.

pickledcucumbers

raisins,currents,olives,old olives,shredded almonds dried cranberries,hard boiled eggs

rocket

pea tendrils

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