No this has nothing to do with Quarts and Pints or any of that nonsense, but rather with Pears and Quince, the two fruit pies that are pretty standard in many late 16th and early 17th century cookbooks.
And they’re often in the “Either/Or ” category of pie, as in
- To bake Peares, quinces or wardens – 1594 Good huswifes handmaid for the kitchen
- To bake Quinces, Pears, and Wardens – 1596 Thomas Dawson. The good huswifes Iewell.
- A warden pie, or a quince pie – 1621. Gervase Markham The English Housewife
A warden pie, or quince pie.
Take of the fairest and best wardens, and pare them, and take out the hard cores on the top, and cut the sharp ends at the bottom flat; then boil them in white wine and sugar, until the syrup grow thick: then take the wardens from the syrup into a clean dish, and let them cool; then set them into the coffin, and prick cloves in the tops, with whole sticks of cinnamon, and great store of sugar, as for pippins; then cover it, and only reserve a vent hole, so set it in the oven and bake it; when it is baked, draw it forth, and take the first syrup in which the wardens were boiled, and taste it, and if it be not sweet enough, then put in more sugar and some rose-water, and boil it again a little, then pour it in at the vent hole and shake the pie well; then take some sweet butter and rose-water melted, and with it anoint the pie lid all over, and then strew upon it store of sugar, and so set it into the oven again a little space, and then serve it up. And in this manner you may also bake quinces.
1631. Gervase Markham. The English Housewife. Best ed. p. 104.