‘Uncategorized’ Category

Muscle Boat

June 12th, 2013 by KM Wall
Sea shells of Northern Wales - muscles and cockles, formerly alive, alive -O

Sea shells of Northern Wales – muscles and cockles, (formerly) alive, alive -O

 

Mussels are easy, taken from the margin and not the deep blue sea. There are also freshwater mussels, if you don’t live near the shore. They’re easy to cook, most commonly being bearded, cleaned form stones and gravel and then boiled (either in water, or wine, or beer) and then served with butter and bread.

But are they versatile? Are they good for anything else?

Besides eating them, what else can you do with muscles/musckles/mussels?

Feed them to your pigs…..(actually, the pigs will feed themselves)

Sow with piglest - notice that they're on the shore (but they're not a 17th century English breed lookaike)

Sow with piglet – notice that they’re on the shore (but they’re not a 17th century English breed lookalike)

Or you can make boats out of them:

Muscle boat

Muscle boat

Not THAT muscle boat – this mussel boat

mussel boat Obs., (perh.) a mussel shell used by children for a toy boat.

1575 R. B. Apius & Virginia sig. B, A mayde or a *Mussell Bote, a wife or a wilde ducke, As bolde as blinde bayerd, as wise as a wood cocke. (We remember how highly thought of woodcocks are from Mr Shakespeare, renowned for their cleverness NOT…Perhaps because our 17th century Englishmen didn’t know about dodo birds..)

Dodo  -Mansur

Dodo and other bird friends -Mansur

a1590 Mariage Witt & Wisdome (Shaks. Soc.) ii. 13 So we ware both put into a mussellbote, And came saling in a sowes yeare ouer sea into Kent. (No silk purses for these sowes ears…they served as boats!)

1612 R. DABORN . C2, Poore fishers brat, that neuer didst aspire Aboue a musle boate.

whyt meate

June 7th, 2013 by KM Wall

Whyte meat? Is that olde-thyme speak for ‘whitemeat’? What happened to the goat milking/cheese making conversation? Isn’t chicken whitemeat? Or pork, the other whitemeat? Or is the another other whitemeat?

Why, yes.

To quote Andrew Boorde  and the Here foloweth a Compenyous Regiment or Dyetary of health, made in Mountpyller  [this]

Chapitre treateth of whyt meate, as of egges, butter, chese, mylke, crayme, &c.

So whitemeat is also DAIRY, so it all ties in the the goats and the curds….

Just a little headnote – it seems that this very same Andrew Boorde may be the original ‘merryandrew’, which you may recall was a sort of jack pudding, or clown or buffon or jester or fool. It’s not that the dear Doctor didn’t study afar and write extensively – his titles alone are exercises in length – he just seems to have rather lost his marbles, as it were, towards his end, which was in the Fleet (prison that is, not the street), wearing a hair shirt and possibly keeping loose woman.  Three loose women.

Miraim-Webster dates the first use of  merry-andrew at 1677, 150 years after his death….

Merry Andrew is also a movie with Danny Kaye.

Merry Andrew - 1958 - Danny Kaye

Merry Andrew – 1958 – Danny Kaye

Back to whitemeats.

Whitemeats as a dairy product is the older term of the word ( I almost said original, but it would take several hours of poking around to confirm or deny, so I found me a fence to sit on, pondering Danny Kaye and Merry Andrews). Back to Monday’s workshop:

Curds forming - last Monday at the workshop

Curds forming – last Monday at the workshop

 

 

Whey and curds

Whey and curds

Moving curds to a cloth to straine

Moving curds to a cloth to strain

 

 

 

 

 

 

More straining

More straining

Dripping and draining

Dripping and draining

One batch was animal rennet; the other vegetable rennet

One batch was animal rennet; the other vegetable rennet

Kathy prepping the cloth to strain the second batch

Kathy prepping the cloth to strain the second batch

 

 

 

 

 

More curds

More curds

Ready to eat

Ready to eat

 

More ready to eat

More ready to eat

Kat provide even more whitemeat snackage then we made there.....

Kathy provided even more whitemeat snackage then we made there…..

Animal, Vegetable, Miracle

June 6th, 2013 by KM Wall

avm-book-cover

A great book by Barbara Kingslover  (link to  her website  ) and….

the true, seldom told story of rennet.  Also known as renning in the  early modern period. It’s what makes milk curdle. It’s actually one of several things that will do that  although it’s unclear how clear it was to the people of the past. Now we divide it between:

Animal rennet, from the stomachs of unweaned animals ( cow, goat or sheep, generally, although camels might have been used in places where camels were common.

Vegetable rennet,  from figs or bedstraw or other herbs, has also been kicking around since the days of Ancient Rome, and were referenced by 17th century writers. Cheshire was famous for the bedstraw used in its cheese.

But knowing how to do something and knowing why something works aren’t always part of the same package.

Chymosin complex

Chymosin complex – portrait of an enzyme agent

It’s actually an enzyme and it’s modern chemical name is rennin. This is a VAST and HUGE oversimplification of the process. It does make a pretty picture. What is does is tangle up the protein strands in the milk, leaving us with curds and whey.

 

Curds (the solid bits) and whey (the liquid) on an industrial scale

Curds (the solid bits) and whey (the liquid) on an industrial scale

Just like Little Miss Muffet. Who sat on a tuffet. Who may or may not have been the step daughter named Patience of a certain Thomas Muffet, (Moffat/Moufet, Mouffet) Puritan and physician, who wrote about insects, among other things. Even though the poem doesn’t start kicking around until the early 1800′s…..

Theatre of Insects by Thomas Moffat...I bet there are SPIDERS in there

Theatre of Insects by Thomas Moffat 1634…I bet there are SPIDERS in there

,

 

Sample of the animal rennet we used in the workshop - a commercial product and not terribly photogenic

Sample of the animal rennet we used in the workshop – a commercial product and not terribly photogenic

A sample of commercially available vegetable rennet that we used Monday night. Also not photogenic.The smell a little differently, or it could have been the containers.

A sample of commercially available vegetable rennet that we used Monday night. Also not photogenic.They smell a little differently, or it could have been the containers.

and to continue a little further afield be we get back to cheese, which is where all roads lead this week….

a little side trip to Ireland, famous cheese eaters and milk drinkers of the 17th century ,where they got all poetical about curds and cream.

Stately, pleasantly it sat,
A compact house and strong.
Then I went in:
The door of it was dry meat,
The threshold was bare bread,
cheese-curds the sides.

Smooth pillars of old cheese,
And sappy bacon props
Alternate ranged;
Fine beams of mellow cream,
White rafters – real curds,
Kept up the house.

 - Aislinge Meic Con Glinne : The Vision of Mac Conglinne (this Irish  story  is from the 11th century ; the extant manuscripts are the one from the 15th  century; the other from the 16th or 17th century. )

The Image of Ireland - are they eating curds and cream?

The Image of Irelande, with a Discoverie of Woodkarne 1581

Sweet Cheese Are Made of These…

June 5th, 2013 by KM Wall
Claude Lorrain - Landscape with Apollo Guarding the Herds of Admetus and Mercury stealing them (1645)

Claude Lorrain – Landscape with Apollo Guarding the Herds of Admetus and Mercury stealing them (1645)

Cows…their milk, actually. And also these……

San Clemente goat - still a baby, so not used in the following workshop

San Clemente goat – still a baby, so not used in the following workshop

What makes a Pilgrim a Pilgrim in the end? Piles of books, tons of reading, lots of questions, talk, talk, talk, (that’s the dialect practice – right), plenty of hard work in a heavy wool suit  AND Hands-On BTS Workshops.

Be prepared – you are about see some Pilgrims without their clothes on. Pilgrim clothes, that is.

Monday night Kathy and Norah led us in a Milking to Cheese-tasting Workshop.

First, the milking.

Before there is cheese, there is milk. We had some lovely Alpines helping out. Alpines are not a rare-breed, unlike the Arapawas   (descendents of early English milch goats  left to fend for themselves off the coast of New Zealand and rescued by Betty Rowe)

Arapawa goat

Arapawa goat

They are also somewhat skittish and can be a little tricky to milk. And they don’t tend to like a lot of strangers. So we let them be.

The other rare breed goat we have are San Clemente Island goats. Although originally of Spanish origin, and so genotype would not be English, they LOOK like English goats for the 1600′s, so their phenotype is just fine. Shocking Behind the Scenes Secrets Revealed!!!!

These cuties are in the national Zoo in Washington DC

These cuties are in the national Zoo in Washington DC

Alpines also give more milk, which means more cheese……

Malka and Norah and an Alpine good girl - the milking stand is very usuful, and something not found for 17th century goatmilkers

Stacey and Malka and Norah and an Alpine good girl – the milking stand is very useful, and something not found for 17th century goatmilkers

 

Alex Milking

Alex Milking

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Close up of milking action shot - I have about 2 dozen of these...it's hard to tell who from who...

Close up of milking action shot – I have about 2 dozen of these…it’s hard to tell who from who…

 

Milking done, it's time to strain - and notice the froth - that's a sign of GOOD milking action!

Milking done, it’s time to strain – and notice the froth – that’s a sign of GOOD milking action!

LOTS of froth!

Frothy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

LOTS of froth!!!

LOTS of froth!!!

 

Once the goats (or cows) are milked, and the milk is strained, it’s time to make the cheese…..

Taccuino Sanitatis Casanatense - Cheesemaking

Taccuino Sanitatis Casanatense – Cheesemaking

To be continued…….

 

 

“what will this sister of mine do with rice?”

May 30th, 2013 by KM Wall

A shopping list in the midst of a Shakespeare play….if you’re talking about Shakespeare, you’re much more likely to use forms like ‘midst’ when middle could do as well. And although the play is called The Winter’s Tale, sheep shearing happens in June – or late May, when the weather is warm, so it’s a timely list.

A Winter’s Tale
Act IV, scene III
Clown: I cannot do’t without counters. Let me see; what am
I to buy for our sheep-shearing feast? Three pound
of sugar, five pound of currants, rice,–what will
this sister of mine do with rice? But my father
hath made her mistress of the feast, and she lays it
on. She hath made me four and twenty nose-gays for
the shearers, three-man-song-men all, and very good
ones; but they are most of them means and bases; but
one puritan amongst them, and he sings psalms to
horn-pipes. I must have saffron to colour the warden
pies; mace; dates?–none, that’s out of my note;
nutmegs, seven; a race or two of ginger, but that I
may beg; four pound of prunes, and as many of
raisins o’ the sun.

Lets see…..


Sugar loaves from the Sugar Museum in Berlin

Sugar loaves from the Sugar Museum in Berlin

Sugar, Currents, Rice, Mace,Nutmegs, a race or two of ginger

A race of ginger

A race of ginger

If there’s some cream around, I’d ask Sister for Rice Pudding!

 

Thomas Tusser

A hundreth good  pointes of husbandrie (1557)

 

 In June washe thy shepe, where the water  doth runne:

and kepe them from dust, but not kepe them from sunne.

Then share them and spare not, at two daies anende:
the sooner the better, their bodies amende.
Breviarium Griman Flanders  -1510

Breviarium Griman Flanders -1510

Cheeslip bag

May 28th, 2013 by KM Wall

From pudding bags to cheeslip bags….more baggage for a 17th century housewife.

New born calf (not one of ours)

New born calf (not one of ours)

Of the Cheeselip bag or rennet

The cheeslip bag or rennet , which is the stomach bag of a young suckling calf, which has never tasted other food than milk, where the curd lieth undigested. Of these bags you shall in the beginning of the year provide yourself good store, and first open the bag and pour out into a clean vessel the curd and thick substance thereof; but the rest which is not curdled you shall put away: then open the curd and pick out all manner of motes , chires of grass, or other filth gotten into the same: then wash the curd n as many cold waters till it be as white and clean from all sorts of motes as is possible; then lay it on a clean cloth that the water may drain from it; which done, lay it in another dry vessel, then take a handful or two of salt and rub the curd therewith exceedingly: then take you bag and wash it also in divers cold waters till it be very clean, and then put the curd and the salt up into the bag, the bag being also well rubbed within with salt: and so put it up, and the salt outside also all over: and then close up the pot close and so keep them a full year before you use them. For touching the hanging of them up in chimney corners (as course housewives do) is sluttish , naught and unwholesome, and the spending of your rennet whilst it is new makes your cheese heave and prove hollow.

Gervase Markham. The English Housewife. (Best ed.) p. 175.

 

Fresh curd

Rennet + milk = Fresh curd

Rennet is the not only way to curdle milk – Ladies Bedstraw (the sort that’s also know as Maidshair) can be used, and was, especially in Cheshire, according to John Gerard, who was from Cheshire.

Ladies Bedstraw, a/k/a Maidshair, in modern Latin (there's a phrase you don't get to use everyday) Galium verum

Ladies Bedstraw, a/k/a Maidshair, in modern Latin (there’s a phrase you don’t get to use everyday) Galium verum

One More (Bag) for the road…..

May 25th, 2013 by KM Wall

manicum hippocraticum -perhaps more properly the sleeve of  hippocras then his bag – for straining the spiced wine known as ipocras or hyppocras (and so on, and so on)

Hit the road, Jack

May 19th, 2013 by KM Wall

A little more about bag pudding, pudding bags, and pudding songs and dances .

Bag Pudding (OED)

[f. BAG n.1 + PUDDING.]

1. A pudding boiled in a bag.
1598 in FLORIO. 1600 HEYWOOD 1 Edw. IV, Wks. 1874 I 47 Thou shalt be welcome to beef and bacon, and perhaps a bag-pudding. 1641 W. CARTWRIGHT Ordinary II. i, A solemn son of Bagpudding and Pottage.

But also

2. fig. ? Clown. Obs. (Cf. jackpudding.)
1608 DAY Hum. out of Br. II. i. (1881) 25 Farewell, sweet heart.God a mercy, bagpudding

Jack Pudding is a stock character for theatre, but also a song and a dance.

John Playford in The English Dancing Master  (1651).

 

001smallsmall

 

Jack Pudding as a song and dance:

Jack Pudding facsimile image from Playford's English Dance Master

Jack Pudding facsimile image from Playford’s English Dance Master

 

Jack Pudding as a song: Jack Pudding midi on this website:  English Dancing Master : (http://www.contrib.andrew.cmu.edu/~flip/contrib/dance/playford.html) – it’s been that kind of week

There’s also a lute version on YouTube. I’m not even trying the link thing – trust me, it’s worth the moment to listen.

Back to Jack.

Pudding, that is.

JACK PUDDING. AKA and see “Merry Andrew,” “Step Stately .” English, Country Dance Tune (6/8 time). A Minor. Standard tuning (fiddle). AAB. The melody was first published by John Playford in his English Dancing Master  (1651), and was retained in the long-running series through the 8th edition of 1690, then published by John’s son, Henry. Beginning with the 4th edition of 1670 the alternate title “Merry Andrew” was given for the tune.

Jack Pudding - a German version also known as Hanswurst

Jack Pudding – a German version also known as Hanswurst

 

 

A ‘Jack Pudding’ is a buffoon who performs pudding tricks, such as swallowing a certain number of yards of black-pudding (i.e. blood pudding in a sausage casing). There are many such figures in Northern European tradition: to the Dutch he is Pickel-herringë; the Germans call him Hans Wurst (John Sausage); the Frenchman, Jean Potage; the Italian, Macaro’ni; and the English, Jack Pudding. Later the term appears to have been applied to a jester, harlequin, or a Punch-like clown figure.

JACK Pudding. n.s. [jack and pudding.] A zani; a merry
Andrew.
Every jack pudding will be ridiculing palpable weaknesses
which they ought to cover. L’Estrange.
A buffoon is called by every nation by the name of the dish
they like best: in French jean pottage, and in English jack
pudding. Guardian.
Jack pudding, in his party-colour’d jacket,
Tosses the glove, and jokes at ev’ry packet. Gay.

Dr Johnson’s Dictionary

 And as for pudding roads…..

Pudding Lane, the street in London (Eastcheap) where, in 1666, the Great Fire of London started at the bakery of a certain Thomas Farriner.

and

Pudding bag Lane - just one way in..

Pudding Bag Lane – just one way in…..

Wedding Days

May 12th, 2013 by KM Wall

Wedding Day

May 12 1621

 May 12. was the first mariage in this place,which, according to the laudable custome of the Low-Cuntries, in which they had lived, was thought most requisite to be performed by the magistrate, as being a civill thing, upon which many questions aboute inheritances doe depende, with other things most proper to their cognizans, and most consonante to the scripturs, Ruth4. and no wher found in the gospell to be layed on the ministers as a part of their office. “This decree or law about mariage was published by the Stats of the Low-Cuntries Ano : 1590. That those of any religion, after lawfull and open publication, coming before the magistrats, in the Town or Stat-house, were to be orderly (by them) maried one to another.” Petets Hist. fol: 1029. And this practiss hath continued amongst, not only them, but hath been followed by all the famous churches of Christ in these parts to this time,-Ano : 1646.

William Bradford. Of Plymouth Plantation.

This is the day that Edward Winslow married Susanna White in 1621.

17th century Flemish wedding

17th century Flemish wedding

This was a second marriage for each of them.  Edward’s first wife, Elizabeth (Barker) died on March 24 and Susanna was widowed on February 21st when William White died. Susanna is also the mother of Peregrine White, born November 1620 shortly after the Mayflower arrives at Cape Cod. This was probably not a  festive, rollicking good time.

Wedding Days

Samuel Pepys writes:

Monday 3 February 1661/62
After musique practice I went to the office, and there with the two Sir Williams all the morning about business, and at noon I dined with Sir W. Batten with many friends more, it being his wedding-day, and among other froliques, it being their third year, they had three pyes, whereof the middlemost was made of an ovall form, in an ovall hole within the other two, which made much mirth, and was called the middle piece; and above all the rest, we had great striving to steal a spooneful out of it; and I remember Mrs. Mills, the minister’s wife, did steal one for me and did give it me; and to end all, Mrs. Shippman did fill the pye full of white wine, it holding at least a pint and a half, and did drink it off for a health to Sir William and my Lady, it being the greatest draft that ever I did see a woman drink in my life.

Notice that

  1. My bold
  2. What he calls the wedding day , we call the anniversary – so 17th century people might consider that they have more then one wedding day
  3. They have 3 pies, one for each year of marriage. This is a totally awesome custom and needs to be revived. Invite me to your wedding  day ‘frolique’ and I’ll bring one of the pies….instead of gifts, have the guests bring pies…..
  4. At the end they turn the pie into a drinking game…how does one fill a pie with a pint and a half of white wine?
Jan Steen - Village Wedding

Jan Steen – Village Wedding

 

Samuel Pepys also writes….

6 January 1662. (Because I’m working from transcripts, I’m a little unclear if this is eleven months AFTER the last passage or if it is four weeks before. I just wish people would stop ‘adjusting’ for the calendar change and just put things in the order in which they actually happened.)

This morning I sent my lute to the Paynter’s, and there I staid with him all the morning to see him paint the neck of my lute in my picture, which I was not pleased with after it was done. Thence to dinner to Sir W. Pen’s, it being a solemn feast day with him, his wedding day, and we had, besides a good chine of beef and other good cheer, eighteen mince pies in a dish, the number of the years that he hath been married.

Jan Steen - Vrolijke huisgezi

Jan Steen – Vrolijke huisgezin – a frolicking good time. I could see this crowd drinking wine out of pie coffins

Notice also:

  1. My bold again
  1. The wedding day/anniversary is called ‘a solemn feast day’.
  1. Little mince pies in a dish:
A plate of mince minces  - seven instead of eighteen - from T. Hall's The Queen's Royal Cookery of 1703

A plate of mince minces – seven instead of eighteen – from T. Hall’s The Queen’s Royal Cookery of 1703

 

Jan Steen - Peasant Wedding

Jan Steen – Peasant Wedding

‘in taste like vnto the greene beane,”

May 7th, 2013 by KM Wall

Travel, travel back in time, to a place where the green bean is as exotic and rare as asparagus, maybe more so. And where asparagus is still unusual enough that it it needs some sort of description of it’s taste. And that both descriptions are meant for the discerning, discriminating, and upper class palate.

Or are they?

Green beans, like unto apsaragus

Green beans, like unto asparagus

Chap 457 Of Spearage, or Asparagus

  1. The first [illustration] being manured, or garden Sperage, hath at his first rising out of the ground thicke tender shoots very soft and brittle. Of the thicknesses of the greatest swans quil, in taste like vnto the greene beane, having at the top a certain scaly soft bud.”

- 1633 John Gerard. The Herbal. Johnson, ed. (Dover) p. 1111.

Chap V

Sperage

 But in this place I think it necessary to be remembered, that the Sperages require small boiling, for too much or too long boiled, they become corrupt or with delight in eating.

Of which the worthy Emperour Drusus, willing to deomonstrate the speedy success of a matter, was wont to say, the same should be sooner done then the Sperage boiled.

- 1577/1652. Thomas Hill. The Gardener’s Labyrinth. Richard Mabey, ed (1987) p. 136-7.

This isn’t the same Roman Emperor….never mind, the point is – it has ALWAYS been known, even the Romans knew,  that asparagus – or sperage or sparagus – must be cooked quickly.

The Time

The bare naked tender shoots of Spearage spring vp in Aprill, at what time they are eaten in salads; they floure in Iune and Iuly; the fruit is ripe in September.

-1633. John Gerard. The Herbal. Johnson, ed. (Dover). p. 1112.

But also image a time – and place – where the alleged aphrodisiac effects are well known. Well known enough for satire. And not just the ‘bare naked’ part.

 

Richard Brome, author of the Sparagus Garden, 1630

Richard Brome, author of The Sparagvs Garden, 1635

 

bare naked shoots

bare naked shoots

bare naked shoots

bare naked shoots

Because, according to the Doctrine of Humours,  being cold and moist, it good for the ladies.….and then there’s the Doctrine of Signatures to consider, gentlemen……

 

 

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