Tonight I’ll try to answer some of the questions I’ve gotten about the metal bobbin lace for the jacket.
As far as our two source jackets go, the Laton jacket at the V&A is trimmed with wide gold and silver bobbin lace. A ¼” gold spangle is sewn at each point of the lace. Jacket 1359-1900, also at the V&A, does not have lace.
I have been imagining our recreated jacket with lace, but have been focusing on the arrangements for the making of the jacket proper. I’ve only recently started to think about how this lace is going to happen.
The best photograph of the lace on the Laton jacket is not clear enough to make a pricking from (the photo is on the V&A website). Because the jacket is permanently mounted, we likely won’t be able to get any better photos. I have talked briefly with Kate Moore (the maker of the beautiful embroidered hanky, and the gold lace that trims it) about how we should best proceed.
Right now we’re thinking we should choose a lace pattern from a period book (like Le Pompe), make a pricking and do up some samples. Here I use the editorial ‘we’; my part in this is just standing back in admiration. I have the highest respect for those who are called to wind thread around pins in intricate designs, but I am not of them.
I will try to have a pricking of the final pattern available for those who would like it, but at this point can’t promise anything. I also can’t say definitely if we’ll be looking for lace makers to help produce the estimated 4 to 5 yards of bobbin lace.
Since the plans for the embroidery session are shaping up nicely, you can be sure I’ll be spending more time on the lace planning in the coming weeks, and I’ll absolutely keep you posted.